Climbing Amadablam is technically difficult and a hardship mountaineering training and experience is required to attempt this peak, a technical route that requires 3500m of fixed ropes and three camps above base camp. The climbing with this route involves pure rock climbing on exquisite granite followed by mixed snow and rock climbing. The last section to the summit involves ice climbing followed by a long steep snow slope: often ropes are employed all the way to the summit. The reasons for this are three-fold: safety, speed and success. Due to the technical nature of the route, ropes will be fixed for most of the climb above camp one. A good working knowledge of abseiling and use of mechanical ascenders (jumars) is mandatory; prior mountaineering experience is required.
Objective dangers on the SW Ridge route is minimal, ice cliffs do not threaten it, the snow slopes are generally stable (with minimal avalanche risk), the rock is of good quality and the mountain is below the reach of jet stream winds. The route is extremely exposed and mistakes with rope work can be unforgiving. For this reason, we have a low client: guide ratio and use experienced guides to keep you safely on track. Your guide(s) will be involved in the fixing of rope and the smooth running of theexpedition but their primary concerns are client safety, best service and success.
Why to climb Amadablam?
- A stunning and technically difficult 6,812m peak
- The trip involves unforgettable and amazing trek to Khumubu valley
- The climb is physically and mentally very tough and you need to be excellent with rock climbing, ice climbing and mountaineering skills.
- Amadablam is perfect climbing trip for those looking for extra challenge and planning to take step to 8000m peaks.
- Dream Himalaya Adventures provides excellent logistic services along with highly experienced Sherpa guides and crew team.
Our Expedition Highlights
- Excellent and comfortable camping logistics will be provided
- Most experienced chef and crews at base camp
- Medical back up Oxygen with mask set throughout the trip
- Smooth support on communication by Radio sets and Satellite phones
- Regular weather reports for summit push
- We provide most experienced and trained Sherpa Guides
- Its double peaks climbing expedition, you will climb Island Peak (6,160m) as an acclimatization climb before heading to Amadablam climb.
- Trek into the deep on Himalayas, where still the pure Sherpa cultures and traditional exists
Trek into the Amadablam Base Camp
We fly from KTM to Lukla, 30 minutes on a twin-otter plane, arriving at 2800m above sea level. We have to take it easy so as to allow our bodies to acclimatize.
On our first day we walk only a couple hours and stay in the small quiet village of Phakding (“next to river”). We use local teahouses and lodges rather than camping on the trek to base camp. Our second day on the trek, it takes us across several narrow swing bridges that span the Dudh-Koshi River (“Milk River”). By mid-afternoon we arrive in the Sherpa capital of Namche Bazaar at 3,440m elevation, where we will allow our bodies to rest and acclimatize at least for two nights.
Once everyone has adjusted sufficiently to the new altitude we walk a further day to the village of Tengbouche at 3910m and we visit the famous Tangboche monastery, which is the one of the oldest and largest Buddhist monastery in the area. And next day we walk through the valley further to Dingboche, from where the spectacular views can be seen. And here we can do acclimatization hiking over 5,000m altitude on Nagarjun Peak. The following day we trek to Chukung valley and we allocate the next 3 days for climbing the Island Peak (6,160m) for better training and proper acclimatization with the high altitude and also getting ready for our main climbing peak Mt. Amadablam. After successfully climbing of Island Peak then we move to Amadablam base camp via Pangbouche where our required expedition logistic will be already set up by our Sherpa team.
Acclimatization climb to Island Peak (6,160m) or Lobuche peak (6119m)
We offer an acclimatization climb to Island peak (6160m) or to Lobuche peak (6119m), this is an additional 3 to 5 days on top of normal plan to Amadablam but this trip maximized your summit success on Amadablam. Once we ascent the 6000m altitude either on Island peak or Lobuche, we don’t need to do acclimatization climb up to that altitude on Amadablam, which minimize some risk on Amadablam. Once we ascent one of the 6000m peak, then we possible push for summit attempt on Amadablam without extra acclimatization rotation, so for this strategy has been working well and successfully accomplished.
High Camps and Climbing Routes
We establish three high camps above base camp to climb Amadablam but these days due to the high risk camping at Camp III, we might do only two high camps and do extra push for summit attempt and return.
Base camp (4,600m):
Situated on a large meadow with a wonderful views of the Imja valley.
BC to Camp 1 (5,795m):
Our first real camp is only one and half-hours walk above Yak camp. This section is marked by rock cairns and involves boulder hopping and some easy scrambling. We sometimes fix couple of sections with rope to be used as a handrail.
Camp I to Camp 2 (5,980m):
This section of the route is usually rock climbing only, depending on the season. The granite is high quality and the moves fun, challenging and exposed but “do-able”. We follow a narrow ridge, switching back and forth on each side of the ridge. This is the hardest rock climbing of the entire route. In places the exposure is extreme and you are very thankful of the fixed ropes in place. Whilst it is generally easier not to pull on the ropes all the time if you are finding the going getting a bit too hard you can just rest on the fixed rope. You can also use your jumar to help you over the odd spot of difficulties. Most of the climbing on this section is traversing on rock, so good rock-climbing skills will help you move efficiently and quickly over this terrain.
Camp two: Situated on top of the Yellow Tower on a narrow platform this campsite is rather exposed and has fantastic views. If you dropped your cup from here it would probably land in base camp!
Camp II to Camp 3 (6,440m):
Now for the hardest snow and ice pitches of the route. We follow a system of steep snow and ice gullies up to join a feature called the Mushroom Ridge. Whilst the ridge itself is not as technical as the gullies leading up to it, the exposure here is palpable. It is a narrow, windy, snow mushroom-like ridge with giant Himalayan peaks in the background. This feature leads us up onto a small plateau at 6300 m, which serves the purpose of camp three. Camp three is in a cold and exposed position. The Sherpas will often use a full climbing rope to tie our tents down as the natural shape of the mountain can at times unfortunately funnel the wind to this location. It is however the only safe flat piece of real estate within range of the summit.
For the summit push, we keep open the two options either direct from Camp to Summit and return or start from Camp 3. In 2006 Nov, all most half part of Camp 3 turned into avalanche since then its more risker to sleep overnight at Camp 3, therefore these days more than 80% of the climbers push their summi all the way form Camp 2 with extra push. If we push from Camp 3 the initial route is to the right of the huge “dablam” (ice cliff), up a moderately steep slope, which is often iced. Once past this feature we move toward the centre of the face. The angle eases slightly and a couple of tough hours later we emerge on the summit (6,812m). The summit is the size of a tennis court and allows us to move around and take pictures. Five of the world’s six highest peaks are clearly visible with amazing close view of Mt. Everest, along with many other 7000m and lesser peaks filling the gaps.
Amadablam Expedition Cost – 2020 and 2021
Our Amadablam expedition cost for 2020 and 2021 has been already published on our website. Our expedition cost is reasonably cheaper and affordable however our service quality is one of the best. We provide one Sherpa guide to each two climbers for highest level of safety and to increase the maximum summit success rate. If any climber wishes to have personal Sherpa guide, it will be provided on some additional cost. Our full board support expedition cost for 2020 is USD 6,250.00 and 2021 is USD 6,450.00 per/climber. The best season to climb Amadablam is autumn season (Oct/Nov), more detail information of the expedition, please visit our website - http://dreamhimalayaadventures.com/mt-amadablam-expedition-6812m.html
Itinerary (Island Peak & Amadablam): 30 days
Day 01: Arrival in KTM, transfer to hotel& briefing
Day 02: Half day sightseeing and afternoon equipment checking and fitting
Day 03: Trek to Phakding (2,600m)
Day 04: Trek to Namche (3,440m)
Day 05: Acclimatization day in Namche to Khumjung/Khunde (3,800m)
Day 06: Trek to Tengbouche(3,905m)
Day 07: Dingbouche (4,410m)
DAY 08: Acclimatization day in Dingbouche up to 5,100m
DAY 09: Trek to Chukung (4,743m)
DAY 10: Acclimatization hiking to Chukkung ri (5,550m)
DAY 11: Trek to Island Peak base camp (4,970m)
DAY 12: Summit attempt and decent to base camp
DAY 13: Trek to Pangbouche (3,930m)
Day 14: Trek to Amadablam base camp (4,600m)
Day 15 - 24: Climbing Period
Day 25: Trek to Pangbouche
Day 26: Trek to Namche
Day 27: Trek to Lukla
Day 28: Fly to Kathmandu
Day 29: Free day in Kathmandu
Day 30: Int’l departure to home