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Kyajo ri Climbing Difficulty

Published Date: 2020-07-07

Trip’s Facts
Maximum elevation: 6,186m /NMA Peak
Himal (Region): Mahalangur
Latitude & Longitude: 27° 54’ 33”, 86° 40’ 25”
 
 
The Kyajo Ri (6,186m) peak was officially opened for climbing by the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism in 2002 and the first ascent was made the same year by a British & French team. Kyajo Ri peak is a stunning and very beautiful looking mountain in Gokyo valley area. This magnificent peak situated in the middle of the Khumbu region surrounded by impressive summits and fantastic views, including lots of 8,000ers. The Kyajo Kharka, the best of the peak is very beautiful, comfortable, quiet and located in a wonderful isolated valley.
 
This Kyajo ri is classified as a group A "Trekking Peak" by Nepal Mountaineering Association which permits a less expensive and less complicated to obtain it. It is technical without being extreme. The route is free of fixed rope and anchors, retaining its pristine, wild condition. It lacks unacceptable levels of objective hazard. The route faces south, towards the sun and warmth.
 
Climbing Route & High Camps:
 
Kyajo Ri, the standard ascent via South West Ridge is from base camp at around 4,600 meters to Camp 1 at over 5,300 meters involves a 2-hour hike over a grassy spur and boulders. Camp 1 to Camp 2 involves some technical climbing at French Alpine (AD+) over mixed face slopes up to 55? And the negotiation of a glacier. Camp 2 to the summit at 6,186 meters has been rated at French Alpine Grade D by the previous expedition. It involves a 15 hour return journey over a glacial ridge, with some mixed rock and ice pitches up to 60?.
 
Kyajo Ri is shorter and technically easier than Ama Dablam, but requiring multiple camps above base camp, rather than being a quick hit from a high camp. If you are looking for a more challenging and 'complete' Himalayan experience than might be gained on some of the popular 'trekking' peaks, this could be it. We classified this peak as an expedition peak therefore aim to climb in 'Expedition Style' utilizing fixed ropes, few high camps and Sherpa guided.
 
 
High Lights of the Expedition:
 
·      Develop altitude experience and build a foundation for big mountains
·      A perfect mountain to climb instead of Amadablam, to avoid crowds, within less time and lower cost
·      If any-one is looking physically and technically challenging 6000m peak, it’s 100% for you
·       Acclimatization trek via Snow Lake ”Gokyo Lake” and over Ranjo Pass (5,360m)
·      Climbing on Gokyo-RI (5,360m)
 
 
Fitness and Experience:
 
Fitness
 
Our 6,000m expedition peaks are physically and technically harder an challenging. Your tough level of fitness is really important for this trip; therefore we strongly suggest preparing yourself in good physical fitness level. You do not need to be an athlete, but a good level of overall fitness is important. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit.
 
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 5 to 7 months to prepare yourself as strong candidate. On this trek, you need to be able to hike 6 – 10 hours over hilly terrain up to 6,000m of altitude with daypack.  On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 10 – 12 hours. We will have porters to carry our heavy camping equipment, food and also the climbing gears.
 
Experience
 
All of our 6000m expedition trips are accessible to experienced trekkers and those who have done some climbing trips in European mountains in order to take another challenge on the Himalaya's Mountains. This trip will be helpful if you want to gain some knowledge about the mountaineering and have future plan to climb BIG Mountains.
 
If you have any previous mountaineering experiences and well knowledge about how to play with mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will surely increase the chances of reaching the summit and also previous trekking and mountaineering experiences is mandatory but doesn’t require any technical experience. But you must have well knowledge about playing with mountaineering climbing gears (i.e. crampon with boot, Ice axe, harness, ropes, jumars, prussiks, abseiling, moving past knots, anchor etc.). But for those who have no mountaineering experiences but have got tough level of fitness, you will be have basic training session by our guides about how to use the climbing gears during rest/acclimatization days. We always make it sure regarding the safety of the team and successful climb of the peak.
 
 
Summary of the Expedition:
 
Trip Code: DHA –NTP/KR/26
Grade: Tough
Best months of the year: April, May, October and November
Trip duration: 26 days
Trekking & climbing duration: 21 days
Accommodation: 11 nights at teahouse & 10 nights at camp  
Hotel Accommodation: 4 nights twin sharing BB basis

Journey:
 
This classic trek into the Solu-Khumbu region begins with a spectacular mountain flight to Lukla & continually trekking along the DudhKosi ("The Milky River"). After crossing the Namche Bazar “Sherpa headquarter” We will gradually make our ascent to Machhermo (4,470m) and Gokyo Lake (4,790m) and climbing the Gokyo Peak (5,360m). After successfully climbing Gokyo Peak, we cross through the Ranjo La Pass (5,360m), which is one of the breathtaking panoramic viewpoints for the world highest mountains. And we will start to descend and trek to Thame, from where the world-class climbers come from. And to the hidden valley of Kyajo Kharka accessed via the village of Mende. Two camps are used above Base Camp: Camp 1 at 5,300m and a high camp on a col at 5,700m. From here, the route to the summit is obvious and follows slopes up to 50 - 55 degrees. After ascending the peak, we try to descent to Camp 1 for over-night stay and next day to base camp then way out from base camp.
 
Trekking and Climbing Itinerary:
 
Day 01: Arrival in KTM, transfer to hotel & short briefing
Day 02: Necessary preparation and tours
Day 03: Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding (2,652m)
Day 04: Trek to Namche (3,440m)
Day 05: Day hike to Khumjung/Khunde (3,800m)
Day 06: Trek to Mongla (3,680m)
Day 07: Trek to Machhermo (4,410m)
Day 08: Trek to Gokyo Lake (4790m)
Day 09: Climb Gokyo RI (5,325m), O/N at Gokyo Lake
Day 10: Cross over Ranjo Pass (5,360m) and up to Lungden (4,380m)
Day 11: Trek to Thame (3,800m)
Day 12: Trek Kyajo Kharka (3,900m)
Day 13: Kuajo RI Base Camp (4,600m)
Day 14: Rest & Preparations
Day 15: Touch to Camp 1 & O/N at base camp
Today we plan to carry some loads to Camp 1 at the foot of the glacier. It's a long way, over some pretty rough ground. From Camp 1 we have good views of our route to the summit, up the left-hand skyline of the mountain. We will return to base camp in the afternoon.
 
Day 16: Move to Camp 1 (5,300m)
Leaving our Base Camp, we will walk through the Glacier section and cross Glacier lakes. We do not need to use crampons on this day. Camp 1 has sufficient place to camp for the group and it is near to the Glacier. We can see the climbing route that we will take on the following day. Following the South West Ridge, we plan to conquer the summit. We pitch our camp near big glacier lake and overnight at camp.
 
Day 17: Rest day at Camp 1 and Sherpas to fix the route to Camp II
 
Day 18: Trek to Camp II/Col
This is an-another hardest day and we head up to Col for the camp overnight crossing through the glacier & big bolder. When we crossed the glacier lakes just head over Glacier with Crampon and ropes. On the high camps, we will eat the basic high food and prepare for next day climbing and night at camp.
 
Day 19: Summit day and back to camp 1/Base Camp
this early morning about 3.00 am start to climb and Guide already has set up the ropes and gears. After light breakfast we start to climb though the rocky part with big boulders and after a walk reach at Glacier part from where it’s fairly hard to climb. As you know that we are taking south west route and our guides will take you up to the summit and on the return back we should back to camp 1.
 
Day 20: A reserve day for bad weather
Day 21: Trek to base camp
Day 22: Trek to Namche
Day 23: Trek to Lukla
Day 24: Fly to KTM, free afternoon  
Day 25: Free day in KTM/emergency day if lukla flight cancelled
Day 26: Depart for home
 
Cost and more details, visit out website: 
http://dreamhimalayaadventures.com/kyajo-ri-expedition-6186m.html 

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