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Dream Himalaya Adventures
  2. GUIDED TRIPS
  3. Nepal
  4. Peak Climbing
  5. Mera & Island Peaks Climbing (6,476m & 6,160m)

Mera & Island Peaks Climbing (6,476m & 6,160m) - 27 days

  • High Camp Mera Peak (5780m)
  • Climbing on Island Peak (6160m)
  • Mera Peak Climbing

 Trip Info

Trip Code: DHA/PC/MIP-27
Destination: : Nepal
Trekking Duration: 17 days
Climbing Period: Mera+Island - (4+1) days
Trek Type : Teahouses & few nights on Camp
Grade:
Maximum Elevation : 6,476M.
Avg. hours of walk / day : 6 hours
Best Month of the Year : April, May, October and November
Hotel Accommodation : 4 nights, 3-star, twin sharing on BB basis
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Brief Information on Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing

Mera Peak (6,476m) was first climbed in May 1953 by J.O.M. Roberts and SenTenzing.  Our ascent will follow the glacier that leads to Mera La (17,767') and on to high camp where we will prepare for our early morning summit.  From high camp, we can take in a sweeping view of Kanchenjunga, Chamlang, Makalu to the east, Everest and Lhotse to the north and Ama-Dablam, Cho-Oyu and Kangtega to the west. This view is undoubtedly one of the most stunning in all of Nepal. With good conditions, we will summit Mera Peak the following morning.  

Island peak (6,160m) is also officially classified as a group “B” trekking peak by Nepal Mountaineering Association also known as “Imja-Tse, looks like an island in a sea of ice and that is why it is called Island peak. It's situated at the top of the Imja Khola valley in the Khumbu region. To climb the peak is semi-technical and straight forward so that the climber must be proficient in using materials like ice axe and crampons. The most difficult section is a mixed rock and ice wall at the slope of around 45 degrees leading to the narrow summit ridge. 

This trekking trip is organized on a camping accommodation based and the trekking approach/route is much quieter than the main Everest trekking route. People, who love to trek to remote areas with very few tourists, this is a perfect trekking route. 

Journey Outline 

Our approach to the peaks begins with a spectacular mountain flight to Lukla (gateway of Everest region). We slowly make our way south through the terraced fields that line the Dudh Kosi to Puiyan and on to Pangum.

We keep to the well-made track on the western valley wall and from Sibuche, catch our first view of the triple summit of Mera Peak. Our gradual acclimatization program means we will stop at the hamlet of Niumso and use a gorgeous bamboo-surrounded forest camp at Chetra Tenga before heading up to the village of Khote. 

As we approach the tiny village of Tagnag. We take the opportunity to do a side trip from Tagnag, perhaps a day walk on the flanks of Kusum Kanguru RI, to help our bodies acclimatize. A trail to Khare is Rocky outcrops, moraine ridges and stunning side valleys allowing us some further days of exploration and acclimatization. At Khare, we do some basic training on a rope and play with some climbing gears and we head up to Mera La next day then to high camp and we do the final summit push on MeraPeak. We will continue north through the uninhabited Hunku Valley with almost constant views of magnificent mountains. After crossing AmphuPass (18,958'), we will establish camp at the base of Imje-Tse.  Named "IslandPeak" first climbed by a team preparing for an Everest ascent in 1953. IslandPeak has an impressive, highly glaciated West Face, which rises from the Lhotse Glacier. 

From base camp, we will ascend a steep, grassy slope and small rocky steps to high camp.  It is necessary to climb a steep, exposed 300' snow and ice ramp to the summit ridge. Fixed ropes will be used at this point in an otherwise non-technical snow climb to attempt the summit and we get into the lower section of the Everest main trail. We trek out via several Sherpa villages i.e. Dingboche, Tengboche, Namche where we have the opportunity to visit the most sacred Buddhist monasteries and views throughout the way is stunning. 

TRIP HIGHTLIGHTS

  • Trek and climb with friendly and famous Sherpa Guides and Summit on Mera Peak and Island Peak as the 1 goal.
  • Climb over one the toughest high pass ‘Amphu-Lapcha’ 5,846m
  • Stunning views of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Kanchenjunga and Mt. Amadablam and more
  • Build a strong foundation for big mountains
  • Develop high altitude expedition skills
  • Trek through forest and remote villages

DETAILS ITINERARY

Day 1

Arrive in KTM (1310m), transfer to hotel and briefing

After you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you will have to go through custom formalities. You will be greeted by our representative who will be anxiously waiting for you with a placard displaying your name in his hand. You will be transferred to the 3-Star category hotel in a private vehicle. Once you get refreshed, you will get briefing regarding the itinerary and you will also be introduced with your crewmembers and other trekkers who are going to join you on the trip. Enjoy welcome dinner in the evening where you can taste authentic Nepali dinner. Stay overnight in a hotel.

Day 2

Gear sorting out, city tour & necessary preparation and packing

In the morning after breakfast, we will organize half day sightseeing tour during which you will be taken on memorable UNESCO Heritage Tour. Tour begins with visit to Nepal’s holiest Pashupatinath Temple Complex and takes us through Nepal’s largest Bouddhanath Stupa and 2500 years old Swoyambhunath Stupa. We will return to hotel in the afternoon and time for shopping of any missing items, packing and getting ready for the trip. Mera Peak Climbing Permit as well as Island Peak Climbing permit is required to climb these peaks.  We will check for the condition of your trekking gears like sleeping bag, trekking boots and down jacket.

Day 3

Fly Lukla 2,800m. Trek to Puiyan (2800m) 3-4hrs

We will drive to domestic terminal of Tribhuvan Airport early in the morning and catch a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. We will follow one of the most scenic air routes in the world with panoramic views of glistening mountains to Tenzing Hillary Airport in Lukla. Lukla allows access to Everest Khumbu region. We will assemble the crew and take breakfast before start of Mera Peak Climbing.  Lowering down from Lukla, we will proceed through forest area to Surke. Moving further through Pakhapani, we will pass through local villages to Puiyan / Paiya. Enjoy the views of KongdeRi, Khatang Peak and other 7000m+ peaks and mountains and stay overnight in Puiyan.

Day 4

Trek to Pangom/ Pangkoma (2,800m) 5-6hrs

After an early morning tea, we will descend to wooden bridge. Crossing the Puiyan River over bridge, we will follow the slippery path to Kari La Pass. We will cross this pass and walk through few dispersed villages. The trail continues through bamboo and rhododendron forest. We will follow the scenic path with incredible views of DudhKunda Mountain and DudhKoshi River Valley to Pangkoma village. Trading is the chief occupation of locals in Pangkoma.

Day 5

Trek Niumso/ Nigmsa (2,600m) 4-5hrs

Leaving Pangom early in the morning, we will lower down through the rock-strewn path that takes us through forest of colourful rhododendron forest. Exiting from the forest, we will walk along Mani walls and teahouses. Following the scenic path with close-up views of south face of Mera Peak (6064m) and Naulekh Peak, we will walk through pine and rhododendron forest to Niumso/ Nigmsa. Stay overnight in Niumso.

Day 6

Strenuous trek to ChetraTenga forest camp (3,400m) 7hrs

After an early morning tea, we will follow the steep and tapered path uphill through rhododendron and bamboo forest. We need to be careful while passing through landslide area. We will descend to river. Walking along the river, the trail contours up to the forest where we will enjoy the views of Himalayan wildlife. Walking past the stone cave, we will reach ChetraTenga Forest Camp where we will stay overnight.

Day 7

Moderately strenuous day to Kothe (3,600m) 5-6hrs

Continuing our journey through ChetraTenga Forest Camp, we will arrive at a perfect view point of Hinku Valley that allows spectacular views of surrounding Mountains and peaks. Following the levelled path through bamboo and pine forest that is rich in wildlife, we will enjoy the breathtaking views of Mera and Hinku Valley as we move towards TashingDingma. We will follow the river in Hinku valley all the way to Kothe where we will stay overnight.

Day 8

Acclimatization day up to 4,000m

Short hike to Kusum Kanguru Base Camp will be made on this day to ensure proper acclimatization. It takes around 4hrs to reach Base Camp from Kothe. The Base Camp greets us with spectacular views of Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Nuptse and Amadablam.  We will return to our camp at Kothe for overnight stay. 

 

Day 9

Trek to Tagnag (4,356m) 5-6hrs

Following the western edge of Hinku River, we will follow the scenic path uphill with view of Peak 39 to Gonmdishung which is a summer settlement of yak herders located to the western edge of Hinku Drangka. From Gondishungt, we will arrive at 200yr old Lungsumba Gompa where we can see the direction towards Mera Peak been inscribed in rock. Bit further from Gompa exists Tagnag/ Thaknak where we will stay overnight. Enjoy the views of Thamserku, Kusum Kangru and Kangtega peaks.

Day 10

Acclimatization: Kusum Kanguru-Ri (5,100)

Taking break from trek is important especially from acclimatization point of view. Those who are feeling fit can make side trip to Kusum Kanguru Ri. Kusum Kanguru distinct Hinku Valley with Dudh Koshi Valley. From Kusum Kanguru Ri, we will descend to Tagnag where we will stay overnight.   

Day 11

Trek to Khare (5,045m)6hrs

Leaving Tagnag, we will walk through the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to Dig Kharka which exists near to the base of HinkuNup Glacier. Dig Kharka offers the scenic view of Charpate Mountain. Leaving Dig Kharka, we will climb uphill through moraines to the snout of HinkuNup. Walking further, we will cross Shar Glacier and walk through steep path to Khare. We will be greeted with spectacular view of North face of Mera Peak.  Stay overnight in Khare.

Day 12

Rope training & acclimatization day to Mera La Camp (5,415m)

This is a preparation day for Mera Peak Climbing. On this day, you will receive a pre climb training from climbing guide. He will share peak climbing strategy and teach you to use the climbing gears like ice axe, crampons, harness and ascender properly. You will also be taught how to use ropes while moving up and down. The climbing guide will make sure that every equipment is in order. 

The trail continues through boulder and glacier to Mera Peak Base Camp/ Mera La Camp. Following the steep route slowly and gradually, we will reach to Mera La Camp. You will get final training before climbing Mera La. After training for 2-3 hours, we will return back to Khare for overnight stay. 
 

Day 13

Mera la High Camp (5,780m)4-5hrs

We will reach to the Mera High Camp on this day. Walking through the rock-strewn path, we will walk for few hours to Mera High Camp. The trail is strenuous as we need to pass through crevasses. We reach to the top of the rock band that is marked by a cairn. We will establish our high camp at the top of rock band. The Camp site offers spectacular views of Everest, Makalu Mountain, Cho Oyu Mountain and south face of Lhotshe, Nuptse and Baruntse Mountains. Stay overnight in Mera High Camp.

Day 14

Summit Mera Peak (6,476m), same day trek to KongmaDingma 8-9hrs

We need to begin our trek quite early before sunrise on this day as our aim is to reach to the summit by noon. After preparing the baggage, we will take slow climb to the summit. Temperature is quite cold in this region. Our trail continues through glacier to snow hump-back ridge. The trail continues through the snout of glacier to the south summit ridge. We need to use fixed cables on this day. Mera Peak summit offers panoramic views of Everest Mountain, Kanchenjunga Mountain, Makalu Mountain, Cho Oyu Mountain and other peaks and mountains. After capturing the memories in camera, we will lower down to High Camp of Mera Peak and follow the descending path toKongmaDingma where we will stay overnight.

Day 15

Spare day for Mera Peak summit in case of bad weather

Including a reserve day in our itinerary makes sure that our trip goes according to plan even if we get delayed by unforeseen circumstances like bad weather and other factors. Also, it makes sure that we will not get behind our schedule even if our trekking members get injured or sick.

Day 16

Honku Valley/SetoPokhari (5200m) 5-6hrs

Leaving KongmaDingma early in the morning, we will walk through yak pasture. The trail continues through remote Honkuvalley. We will be enthralled at the sight of Chamlang and Baruntse Mountain. After following the level path for couple of hours, we will take gradual ascend through the forest withclose-up views of Everest and Lhotse to arrive at SetoPokhari where we will stay overnight.

Day 17

AmphuLapcha base camp (5400m)/ High Camp (5,700m) 6-7hrs

SetoPokhari is the first lake that we encounter in Upper Honku Valley. Following the high altitude path, we will walk through the remotest parts of Himalayas. This is one of the least crowded area. The path is scenic with views of Chamlang (7321m) and its hanging glaciers to the right. The trail continues to AmphuLapcha Base Camp. Time permitting, we will climb to High Camp for overnight stay. 

Day 18

Corss Amphu pass (5,845m) & Trek to Chukung 6-7 hrs

After making final preparations and checking gears, we will cross Amphu Laptsa Pass. This is a difficult pass to cross so we may need use of ropes and crampons. We will notice follow the collection of rocks. Towards the northern side, we will walk through steep slope with help of fixed cables and descend to the snow. Following the descending trail from snow basin to moraine and finally to valley, we will reach Yak Kharka, the summer settlement of yak herders where we will stay overnight and we continue until Chukung (4700m), where we confortable stay at better teahouse with better food. 

Day 19

Rest dat at Chukung or extra day in case of bad weather or emergency day

If we make to Chukung earlier day, we will take a complete day rest, and do some preparations for Island Peak climb for next day. This day will be a reserve day in our itinerary makes sure that our trip goes according to plan even if we get delayed by unforeseen circumstances like bad weather and other factors. Also, it makes sure that we will not get behind our schedule even if our trekking members get injured or sick.

Day 20

Trek to Island Peak base camp (5200m) 5hrs

From Chukung, we will do easy short trek to Island Peak base camp, it will be about 3 hours walk only, so we will start late morning from Chukung. Enjoy the spectacular views of surrounding mountains and moraine valley. We will stay at camp and getting ready for Island peak summut push very very early next day morning. 

Day 21

Summit Island Peak and decent to base camp 8hrs and continue to Chukung

The trail continues to raise up from the rock gully. We need to climb series of short rock steps which will bring us to the right side of the drain. We will follow a ridgeline which will take us to the exposed traverse onto the snout of the summit glacier. We will need rope on this day. Moving through crevasses, we will climb 40 degree slope by help of rope and follow the ridge up to the summit. We will spend some time in summit enjoying the successful ascend of Island Peak and lower down to Base Camp, we will have some hot meals and drinks at Base Camp and continue walk to Chukung for overnight stay.

Day 22

Trek to Debouche (3,867m) 5-6hrs

From Chukung, we will follow the descending trail to Dingbouche. We will enjoy the views of Lhotse, Imja and Amadablam Mountains and walk along river which takes us through the less vegetation area. Following the sloped path uphill, we will reach Dingboche where we will have lunch there. We can see fields enclosed by stone walls at Dingboche. Dingboche offers spectacular views of Amadablam, Lhotse and Nuptse peaks. After lunch we will continue walk to Debouche where we will stay overnight. 

Day 23

Trek to Namche (3440m)4-5hrs

From Deboche, we will proceed towards Tengboche Monastery where we can see Buddhist Lamas performing rituals. Tengboche Monastery is one of the famous monasteries in Khumbu region. From Monastery, our trail continues along DudhKoshi Valley to the small village of PhukiTenga. We will follow the ascending path to Namche. The path is scenic with views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and other mountains. Stay overnight in Namche.  

Day 24

Trek to Lukla (2800m) 4-5hrs

From Namche, we will lower down to rhododendron forest and walk along Dudhkoshi River to Phakding. Walking past the walled road of Ghat, we will reach Lukla. Stay overnight in Lukla.

Day 25

Fly Lukla to KTM, free day in KTM (30 min flight)

We will catch an early morning flight from Lukla to Kathmandu. This is rest day. Spend the day as you like. You can go for shopping in Thamel where you can buy souvenir items. We can also arrange for guided sightseeing tour. Alternatively, you can arrange your photo albums and jot down memories in your journal. Stay overnight in a hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 26

Free day in KTM, Shopping, reserve day for Lukla – KTM flight

This is rest day. Spend the day as you like. You can go for shopping in Thamel where you can buy souvenir items. Thanka painting, pashmina shawl and Nepali handicrafts are most popular gift items. Upon your interest, we can also arrange for guided sightseeing tour. Farewell dinner will be served in the evening.  

Day 27

Int'l departure for flight to home

We will transfer you to the Airport as per your scheduled flight for your onward destination. Safe journey. We hope to see you soon.
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HIRING OPTIONS

  • Carabiner (Unlock) - USD 0.50 per/day 
  • Carabiner (Lock) - USD 0.50 per/day 
  • Harness - USD 1 per/day 
  • Halmet (Camp/BD) - USD 1 per/day 
  • Ice Axe (55cm to 75cm) - USD 1 per/day 
  • Mountaineering boot (Spantik or similar, size UK 6 to 12) - USD 3.00 per/day 
  • Mountaineering boot (Scarpa Old or similar, size UK 6 to 12) - USD 2.00 per/day 
  • Crampon - USD 1 per/day 
  • Figure of 8/Descender - USD 1 per/day 
  • Jumar/Ascender - USD 1.5 per/day
  • Down jacket (450 grams down) - USD 2.5 per/day 
  • Sleeping bag (-20 degree rated) - USD 3 per/day 

COST INCLUDES

  • Peak Climbing Permits
  • Conservation/National park fees and all govt. taxes
  • All internal flight anddeparture airport taxes
  • All airport/hotel/airport transfers by private vehicles
  • Climbing Sherpa Guide on 1:3 ratios
  • Trained Cook and Kitchen boy(s)
  • Require number of porters
  • Best quality member tent single or twin sharing with sleeping mattress
  • Tents i.e. dinning, kitchen, shower, toilet
  • Full camping gears including table and chairs
  • EPI gas with stove for high camp cooking purpose
  • All meals quality and hygienic (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
  • All hot drinks (tea, coffee, hot chocolate, juice, treated/boiled drinking water)
  • Individual high altitude packed food and drinks
  • All necessary climbing hardware gears including ropes.
  • A group first aid kits
  • Oxygen with mask set & Gamow bag for emergency medical purpose
  • Satellite phone for emergency call purpose
  • Insurance of all local team members
  • Equipment for porter
  • Half-day world heritage sites tour
  • Group celebration dinner

COST EXCLUDES

  • Medical/personal high risk insurance (must cover emergency evacuation)
  • International airfares and departure tax
  • Personal trek &climbing gears
  • Major meals in Kathmandu
  • Cost of personal expenses i.e. telephone calls, laundry, Toiletry items etc
  • Bottle water, soft drinks, beers etc
  • Tips to the local staff

Fitness Requirements

 Most of our trekking peaks are over 6,000m; therefore we count it as a tough trip. Your tough level of fitness is really important for this trek. So we strongly suggest preparing yourself for good physical fitness level. You do not need to be an athlete but a good level of overall fitness is important. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. As an indication, you should be able to walk 8 km / 5 miles with a maximum height gain of 800m / 2,000ft with a 10kg rucksack in 5 hours or less.
 
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 4 to 6 months to prepare yourself as a strong candidate. You can go to the fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 7kg, 10kg, 13 kg, 16kg and up to 20kg). Manage some time for cycling for a couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week. However, during climbing, there might be little symptoms of altitude illness like mild headache, fatigue, etc. but take it as normal and just drink a lot of water (4 – 5 liters) every day. On this trek, you need to be able to hike 6 – 10 hours over hilly terrain up to 6,000m of altitude with a daypack. 

Value of Experience 

 All of our trekking peaks climbing trips are accessible to experienced trekkers and those who have done some climbing trips in European mountains in order to take another challenge on the Himalayas Mountains. This trip will be helpful if you want to gain some knowledge about mountaineering and have a future plan to climb the BIG Mountains.
 
If you have any previous mountaineering experiences and well knowledge about playing with mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing will increase the chances of reaching the summit but previous trekking and mountaineering experiences are not mandatory and also doesn’t require any technical experience. Note that if you are participating in one of the technical climbing peak then you must have well knowledge about playing with mountaineering climbing gears (i.e. crampon with boot, Ice axe, harness, ropes, jumars, prussiks, abseiling, moving past knots, anchor, etc.).Crampons are used for maximum grip and harness and ropes are used for maximum safety during climbing. But for those who have no mountaineering experience and skill but have got tough level of fitness, you will have basic training sessions by our guides about how to use the climbing gears during rest/acclimatization day. So we always make sure regarding the safety of the team and the successful climb of the peak. 

Pemba on the summit of Mera Peak (6476m)
Mera Peak Climbing
Porter carrying loads on Mera Peak expediiton
Mera Peak (6,476m)
Climbing on Island Peak (6160m)
Climbers climbing on rope
Climbers on the summit of Island Peak
High Camp Mera Peak (5780m)
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Dream Himalaya Adventures (DHA) is the Himalayan based logistics company located in Kathmandu, Nepal. The company is run by team of professional and well experienced Sherpas, who are specialized in organizing adventure treks & logistic supplies to the mountaineering expeditions of the world’s tallest and challenging mountains of the Himalayas. 

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