The potential for climbing "East of Everest" was first recognized by members of Shipton's 1951 Everest Reconnaissance expedition, which made a journey of exploration into the region. Three years later, in 1954, members of Shipton's 1951 Everest Reconnaissance expedition, including Edmund Hillary and George Lowe, returned to exploit the climbing potential to the full. Although their prime aim was to explore Makalu, in a concerted effort of peak bagging around the upper Barun Glacier, this team made no fewer than 20 first ascents of which Baruntse was the most significant. The first ascent of Baruntse was been made. They climbed the mountain by the South-East Ridge, which will be the line of our ascent.
An ascent on Baruntse (23,390ft / 7,129m) is an adventure for climbers wishing to summit a true Nepal Himalaya peak. This remote expedition into the heart of the Khumbu culminates in a relatively short climb to the summit of this majestic 7,000m peak. Baruntse is among some of the highest peaks of the Himalaya, including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and AmaDablam, and this expedition rewards you with spectacular views throughout.
Mt. Baruntse expedition trip also encompasses a climb of Mera Peak (6476m/21,246ft) as acclimatization on the long approach trek to Base Camp and a crossing of the Ambulapcha Pass on the return.
This trip is an opportunity to experience non-technical climbing at moderate to high altitude, and whilst not being an 8,000-meter peak, the climb incorporates a lot of the components of 8000m peak climbing and can be regarded as a good training peak for higher objectives. In addition to the climbing, the expedition visits a remote part of Nepal with stunning Himalayan views and exciting local culture.
We'll establish Base Camp just above the five holy lakes "Panch Pokhari" at 5,400m and two higher camps on the mountain. We'll ascend the 6,100m West Col before establishing Camp 1 (6,150m), where the long ridge leading to the summit is clearly visible. We establish our Camp II at the altitude of 6,400m from where we ascend the peak and turn back to Camp I, which takes about 10/11 hours. The climb from CI to CII follows steepening slopes to a small col and takes about 4/5 hours. A tricky step at around 7,000m adds further spice to the climb. The route is generally a straightforward snow and ice climb and not technically demanding.
After preparations in Kathmandu, we'll fly direct to Lukla and begin the trek into the Hinku Valley, enjoying Sherpa country at its finest. The hike-in provides for excellent acclimatization as we head northward through the pristine alpine environment. On the way to Baruntse BC. We slowly make our way south through the terraced fields that line the DuhdKosi to Piuyan and on to Pangum, and continue for 8 days to reach at base camp of Mera Peak/Khare and climbing on Mera Peak starts, 1st night to Mera La, 2nd to High Camp and Summit of the peak and continue descent and walk to next side to KongmaDingma. Trek continues to base camp of Batunse via Hunku valley and Sherpas start to carry the loads to the higher camps and acclimatization climbing to the higher camps will also happen simultaneously. On the return way to Lukla, we will trek through a challenging and stunning viewpoint, Amphu Lapcha Pass (5,845m) and goes through the lower part of the Everest region, this will give you chance to see and experience the Sherpas cultures and traditions.
Day 1Arrive in KTM, transfer to hotel and briefing
Day 2City tour & necessary preparation
Day 3Fly Lukla 2200m. Trek to Piuyan (2800m) 3-4 hrs
Day 4Pangom (2800m) 5-6hrs
Day 5Niumso (2600m) 4-5hrs
Day 6Strenuous trek Chetra Tenga forest camp (3400m) 7hrs
Day 7Moderately strenuous trek to Kothe (3600m) 6-7hrs
Day 8Trek to Tagnag (4356m) 6hrs
Day 9Acclimatization: Kusum Kaunguru Ridge & back to Tagnag (4356m) 6-7hrs
Day 10Trek to Khare via Dig Kharka (5025m) 6-7hrs
Day 11Short steep walk to Mera La Camp (5415m) - acclimatization and training day 4-6hrs
Day 12Mera la High Camp (5800m) 4-6hrs
Day 13Summit Mera Peak (6,654m), same day trek to Kongmo Dingma 8-9hrs
Day 14Honku Valley/Seto Pokheri (5200m) 5-6hrs
Day 15Mt Baruntse base camp (5,400m)
Day 16-25Load ferry, acclimatization and summit attempt (7,129m)
Day 26Trek to Amphu Lapcha Pass BC (5,530m) 5-6hrs
Day 27Cross Amphu Pass (5845m) & Trek to Chukung 7-8hrs
Day 28Trek to Pangboche (3930m) 5-6hrs
Day 29Trek to Namche (3440m) - 5hrs
Day 30Trek to Lukla, 2800m - 6hrs
Day 31-32Fly to KTM, transfer to hotel and enjoy KTM
Days 33Int’l departure to home
Any expedition that goes to 7,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 20km on flat ground in under 2.5 hours and walk with a very light pack for 100km in less than 20 hours on a mixture of flat and hilly terrain. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability. Upper body strength will not be a big factor in this climb, more legs, and lungs.
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 6 to 8 months to prepare yourself as a strong candidate. You can go to the fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e.10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for a couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week. However, during climbing and acclimatization, there might be little symptoms of altitude illness like mild headache, fatigue, etc. but take it as normal and just drink a lot of water (4 – 5 liters) every day. On this trek, you need to be able to hike 6 – 10 hours over hilly terrain up to 6,000m of altitude with a daypack. On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 12 – 14 hours. We will have porters to carry our heavy camping equipment, food and also the climbing gear.
This trip is aimed at the moderately experienced climber and/or very fit athlete wanting to test them at high altitude before attempting the 8000m peak. Suitable experience would be a past climbing trip to one of the 6,000m peak in the Himalayas (i.e. Island Peak 6,160m, Lobuche Peak 6,119m, Mera Peak 6,476m or any other one), or have completed technical mountaineering course and a good level of proficiency with leading rock climbs combined with ice and skiing experiences. If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
You must have well knowledge about how to play with mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will surely increase the chances of reaching the summit and also previous trekking and mountaineering experiences are mandatory but don't really require any extreme technical experience.
I had the amazing opportunity of trekking through Khumbu, Nepal over Renjo La towards Gokyo lake and back down through Namche Bazaar. This trip would have been impossible without the incredible support of the Dream Himalaya Adventures team. They handled all of the logistics and support throughout the trip so that our experience could be completely stress free. The amazing staff is so kind, friendly, and some of the best people that you'll have the opportunity of becoming acquainted with. I'll be going back soon with Dream Himalaya and I recommend you do the same!
Dream Himalaya provided an unforgettable adventure led by our exceptional guide Karma. His expertise, coupled with his genuine love and joy for the mountains, made him an absolute joy to be with for three weeks. With his support and the rest of the team, we successfully climbed Lobuche Peak. We couldn't have achieved it without Dawa's professionalism, meticulous planning, and genuine care.
Dream Himalaya Adventures is a great service provider. We trekked along the Bhote Koshi towards Nangpa La. Then, crossed Renjo La and spent some time in Gokyo before heading south along the Dudhkoshi to Chumoa. Pema and Kami are extremely helpful, thoughtful, and reliable. They made our trek very comfortable. Our hosts at the guesthouses were kind and generous. Dawa and his team provided great service. I highly recommend Dream Himalaya Adventures.
We took a slow pace trekking clockwise up and over the Renzo pass. It was a stunning journey: all of the guesthouses we stayed in were lovely (warm, clean, with delicious food), and our guides were so kind and caring! Pema and Kami were so fun to spend the trek with, flexible in our group's plans, and very thoughtful, helping us achieve all that we wanted to do. I hope to do another trek with Dream Himalaya Adventures in the future!
To: Dream Himalaya Adventures c/o Dawa, The service you have provided during my trek was superb. Your services are excellent and worthy of recommendation. You deserve this recognition and appreciation!!! There is always a touch of excellence in your work! Thank you and God bless! Keep it up!
Thank you to Dawa and Dream Himalaya Adventures for making our trip an adventure of a lifetime! Very professional with outstanding communication even during our preparation. All our expectations were exceeded! Staff was very kind and professional as well. Shout out to our Sherpa Pasang and our porters for a job well done. They took care of us well. Thanks to my hiking buddies Gary and Vlad your the best! Dream Himalaya Adventures is the way to go! 🙏
A great experience & adventure even though quite challenging. Dawa from Dream Himalayan Adventures was excellent & very accommodating ,he makes sure you are well equiped for the adventure ahead. The accommodation on the trek is serviceable & the food surprisingly very good considering the remoteness. The staff at base camp ,sherpas & porters are all friendly ,helpfull & know their stuff. I would be very happy to use Dream Himalaya Adventures again.
I’m so glad I chose Dream Himalaya to handle the logistics for my EBC Trek this April 2023. Everything was meticulously planned, handled and executed from the get go which enabled me to enjoy a great hassle free trek. Everything from thé coordinator, guides and sherpa were awesome. Truly world class service from the day you arrive at KTM until you say your goodbyes . These are the stuff dreams are made of .
What an adventure ! in a beautiful location surrounded by beautiful people. I was treated like family by Dawa and Pasang. All I have is beautiful memories and superb photos. I loved Nepal / Himalayas/ Everest region and would only recommend Dawa and the team to trek with in Nepal.
We had the best time with the team from Dream Himalaya Adventures they went above and beyond for me and my wife before, during and after our trip I will be 100% returning to do my trips with Dawa and his team
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