The potential for climbing "East of Everest" was first recognized by members of Shipton's 1951 Everest Reconnaissance expedition, which made a journey of exploration into the region. Three years later, in 1954, members of Shipton's 1951 Everest Reconnaissance expedition, including Edmund Hillary and George Lowe, returned to exploit the climbing potential to the full. Although their prime aim was to explore Makalu, in a concerted effort of peak bagging around the upper Barun Glacier, this team made no fewer than 20 first ascents of which Baruntse was the most significant. The first ascent of Baruntse was been made. They climbed the mountain by the South-East Ridge, which will be the line of our ascent.
An ascent on Baruntse (23,390ft / 7,129m) is an adventure for climbers wishing to summit a true Nepal Himalaya peak. This remote expedition into the heart of the Khumbu culminates in a relatively short climb to the summit of this majestic 7,000m peak. Baruntse is among some of the highest peaks of the Himalaya, including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and AmaDablam, and this expedition rewards you with spectacular views throughout.
Mt. Baruntse expedition trip also encompasses a climb of Mera Peak (6476m/21,246ft) as acclimatization on the long approach trek to Base Camp and a crossing of the Ambulapcha Pass on the return.
This trip is an opportunity to experience non-technical climbing at moderate to high altitude, and whilst not being an 8,000-meter peak, the climb incorporates a lot of the components of 8000m peak climbing and can be regarded as a good training peak for higher objectives. In addition to the climbing, the expedition visits a remote part of Nepal with stunning Himalayan views and exciting local culture.
We'll establish Base Camp just above the five holy lakes "Panch Pokhari" at 5,400m and two higher camps on the mountain. We'll ascend the 6,100m West Col before establishing Camp 1 (6,150m), where the long ridge leading to the summit is clearly visible. We establish our Camp II at the altitude of 6,400m from where we ascend the peak and turn back to Camp I, which takes about 10/11 hours. The climb from CI to CII follows steepening slopes to a small col and takes about 4/5 hours. A tricky step at around 7,000m adds further spice to the climb. The route is generally a straightforward snow and ice climb and not technically demanding.
After preparations in Kathmandu, we'll fly direct to Lukla and begin the trek into the Hinku Valley, enjoying Sherpa country at its finest. The hike-in provides for excellent acclimatization as we head northward through the pristine alpine environment. On the way to Baruntse BC. We slowly make our way south through the terraced fields that line the DuhdKosi to Piuyan and on to Pangum, and continue for 8 days to reach at base camp of Mera Peak/Khare and climbing on Mera Peak starts, 1st night to Mera La, 2nd to High Camp and Summit of the peak and continue descent and walk to next side to KongmaDingma. Trek continues to base camp of Batunse via Hunku valley and Sherpas start to carry the loads to the higher camps and acclimatization climbing to the higher camps will also happen simultaneously. On the return way to Lukla, we will trek through a challenging and stunning viewpoint, Amphu Lapcha Pass (5,845m) and goes through the lower part of the Everest region, this will give you chance to see and experience the Sherpas cultures and traditions.
Day 1
Arrive in KTM, transfer to hotel and briefingDay 2
City tour & necessary preparationDay 3
Fly Lukla 2200m. Trek to Piuyan (2800m) 3-4 hrsDay 4
Pangom (2800m) 5-6hrsDay 5
Niumso (2600m) 4-5hrsDay 6
Strenuous trek Chetra Tenga forest camp (3400m) 7hrsDay 7
Moderately strenuous trek to Kothe (3600m) 6-7hrsDay 8
Trek to Tagnag (4356m) 6hrsDay 9
Acclimatization: Kusum Kaunguru Ridge & back to Tagnag (4356m) 6-7hrsDay 10
Trek to Khare via Dig Kharka (5025m) 6-7hrsDay 11
Short steep walk to Mera La Camp (5415m) - acclimatization and training day 4-6hrsDay 12
Mera la High Camp (5800m) 4-6hrsDay 13
Summit Mera Peak (6,654m), same day trek to Kongmo Dingma 8-9hrsDay 14
Honku Valley/Seto Pokheri (5200m) 5-6hrsDay 15
Mt Baruntse base camp (5,400m)Day 16-25
Load ferry, acclimatization and summit attempt (7,129m)Day 26
Trek to Amphu Lapcha Pass BC (5,530m) 5-6hrsDay 27
Cross Amphu Pass (5845m) & Trek to Chukung 7-8hrsDay 28
Trek to Pangboche (3930m) 5-6hrsDay 29
Trek to Namche (3440m) - 5hrsDay 30
Trek to Lukla, 2800m - 6hrsDay 31-32
Fly to KTM, transfer to hotel and enjoy KTMDays 33
Int’l departure to homeAny expedition that goes to 7,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 20km on flat ground in under 2.5 hours and walk with a very light pack for 100km in less than 20 hours on a mixture of flat and hilly terrain. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability. Upper body strength will not be a big factor in this climb, more legs, and lungs.
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 6 to 8 months to prepare yourself as a strong candidate. You can go to the fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e.10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for a couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week. However, during climbing and acclimatization, there might be little symptoms of altitude illness like mild headache, fatigue, etc. but take it as normal and just drink a lot of water (4 – 5 liters) every day. On this trek, you need to be able to hike 6 – 10 hours over hilly terrain up to 6,000m of altitude with a daypack. On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 12 – 14 hours. We will have porters to carry our heavy camping equipment, food and also the climbing gear.
This trip is aimed at the moderately experienced climber and/or very fit athlete wanting to test them at high altitude before attempting the 8000m peak. Suitable experience would be a past climbing trip to one of the 6,000m peak in the Himalayas (i.e. Island Peak 6,160m, Lobuche Peak 6,119m, Mera Peak 6,476m or any other one), or have completed technical mountaineering course and a good level of proficiency with leading rock climbs combined with ice and skiing experiences. If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
You must have well knowledge about how to play with mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will surely increase the chances of reaching the summit and also previous trekking and mountaineering experiences are mandatory but don't really require any extreme technical experience.
I highly recommend Dream Himalaya. They have a first-rate operation with personal attention to trek planning, good communication before and during the trek, and excellent trek organization. In spring 2024 I contacted Dream Himalaya to arrange a custom solo private trek. Dream Himalaya came recommended by a Sherpa friend who has used their services a lot. Dream Himalaya’s manager, Dawa Sherpa (Lama), corresponded with me via email to plan the trek and made all arrangements. Dawa Sherpa fine-tuned the trip arrangements exactly as I wished and came through on every detail, including arranging a private jeep to and from trailheads, telephoning lodges to reserve rooms (this is important during busy times of the year on popular routes), and providing an
The trip was excellent! This was our third trip to Nepal after Annapurnatrek and Kailash and agencywise it was by far the best one! Already the time in Kathmandu was greatly planned. During the trek and climb (14 days) everything worked out perfectly. Our guide (Nigma, a multiple Everest summiter (!)) was more then experienced and summit days was a blast for me and my son (16 y.). On ChoLa Pass (5.300 m) we got in a little trouble, since my wife had problems with the altitude, but this was solved immidiatly by our guide with a bottle of oxygene and she got down safely. As far as I can tell, we always stayed in the nicest guest- and teahoues
Très bonne organisation de la planification jusqu'au départ. Professionnel. L'équipe au BC est top Merci Dawa. In English translation Very good organization from planning to departure. Professional. The team at BC is great Thanks Dawa.
From the first morning meeting, when Dawa Sherpa Lama (our trip organizer and guide) carefully advised us on what to pack and what to leave in hotel in Kathmandu while we were on our high altitude trek, to the hike from Lukla to Namche Bazaar to the Sherpa village of Thame, to Everest View Hotel and then up to Tengboche Monastery -- and finally back to the city for tourist sites and shopping, we were in the best of hands. We had fun, we felt adventurous and always safe and well accommodated at nice tea houses and lodges. Such an amazingly stunning country! All the special requests I had made for research for my book were met and then some.
Dream Himalaya Adventures is a fantastic company to trek with! We had specific dates that we needed to work within and wanted to experience as much as we could within this time and Dawa did a fantastic job of organising our tip to suit. Everything was thoroughly planned and communicated and the hospitality in country was fantastic, from pre-trip meetings to a highly experienced guide. We were so well looked after the whole time we were in Nepal and they were able to make recommendations and changes to our itineraries as the trip went. Couldn’t recommend Dawa and the team enough!
We booked our adventure with Dream Himalaya and we certainly did not regret one bit of it. From the moment we landed, we were well taken care of. We were well informed each step of the way on what was or will happen during the hike. This was especially evident when our first days were unfortunately side-tracked by bad weather in Lukla and we had to make crucial decisions for the remainder of the trip. During the hike, we were well taken care of by our sherpa and porters who were all very nice, helpful and thoughtful. They made sure that we were all taken care of, fed and well rested. They also made sure that no one was left behind no
In okt,nov 2023 I was a member of a small group crossing Saribung pas to Mustang. This logistically very demanding trek was excellently prepared by the Dream Himlay Company and in particular by the trek leader Pasang Sherpa. I appreciated the pre-trip very fast and precise mail answers to my questions from Dawa and I am so grateful to have met so many friendly and extremely helpful assistent leaders, porters and kitchen staff members, who all contributed to make this trek an experience of a lifetime.
We chose Dream Himalayas because my partner, Twyla, previously engaged with them in 2013 to trek the Everest Base Camp. She had a wonderful experience with Dawa and his team; they made her EBC dreams come true and she fondly remembers how very well taken care she her trekking partner were on their private trip. So when the opportunity to visit Nepal came in 2023, we did not hesitate to contact Dawa and to inquire if he could customize a bike-trek-bike itinerary for us. For the past years, we have transitioned from trekkers to bike tourers and we wanted to take on the challenge of biking the Annapurna Circuit but we wanted to do it with an experienced outfitter that we
Who said it's the end of the trekking season?! I completed the Everest Base Camp trek through Dream Himalaya Adventures at the end of December - Christmas Day on the way down - and the weather couldn't have been better. Clear blue skies and, ok, a cold night at -26 Celcius, but appropriate clothing layers overcame that. Reaching the base camp was satisfying, but more challenging was the higher Mt Kali Pathar which was a little deficient in oxygen, but fun all the same. My sincere thanks go to Dawa Sherpa Lama for so competently organising this trip for me, as well as later excursions to Chitwan wildlife park and beautiful Pokhara leading up to a memorable new years eve
Did a three-week trek with Dawa Sherpa Lama's company over Sarabung Pass and through the Upper Mustang region. We told Dawa what we were looking for and he designed a trip that met our hopes and expectations. Our lead Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa is very experienced (7 Everest summits), and the entire team of Sherpas, cooks, and porters provided a very high level of service, including great food during the camping sections of the trip. I would recommend Dream Himalaya Adventures Pvt. Ltd to any of my friends that want to trek in Nepal.
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