Mt. Lhotse Expedition (8,516m) - 65 days

Trip Info

Trip Code: DHA/M/LX-65

Destination: : Nepal

Trekking Duration: 12 days

Climbing Period: 45 days

Trek Type : Teahouse basis

Grade:

Maximum Elevation : 8,516M.

Best Month of the Year : April, May

Hotel Accommodation : 5 nights, 3-star hotel on single room on BB basis

Mt. Lhotse Expedition - Brief Introduction

Mt. Lhotse (8,516m) peak is a part of the Everest Massif. The first attempt of Mt. Lhotse was made by an international team in the year 1955. The first successful ascent of this mountain was in 1956 by F. Luchsinger & E. Reiss of Swiss from the West Face. The primary route on Mt. Lhotse is via Everest's South Col. It is an independent mountain, but the group of three peaks make up the Lhotse massif: Lhotse East or Middle, Lhotse & Lhotse Shar. The South Face of Lhotse is one of the largest mountain faces in the world. Our route to climb this mountain is via the normal route or South Face of Lhotse.

Dream Himalaya Adventures has been running successful Himalayan mountaineering expeditions since more than decades now. We support full board expedition services up to the summit of the peak and as well as the basic services for base camp. We are committed to providing the highest quality service and experience to help you reach your goal. However, all climbing members are required to have considerable climbing experience at higher altitudes, preferably in the Himalaya.

Our Sherpa are highly qualified, experienced and several times summits of Mt. Everest and other 8000m peaks. All of our Sherpa are proficient mountaineers with excellent success rates, and are always focussed on the safety of clients as their number one priority. All Climbers will be assisted by our well experienced Sherpas at the ratio of 1:1 and there will be a manager at base camp to assist the team members and the Sherpas.

Climbing Routes and High Camps

After final preparations in Kathmandu, we'll fly to Lukla and begins our 8 days teahouse trek in the Khumbu Valley to Everest base camp. We will ascend the peak via the normal route, the south face route. We will establish four different camps on the mountain. The first, at 19,500ft, is situated at the top of the icefall. This camp functions as an intermediate camp until CampII (advanced base camp) is established at 21,000ft. CampII will consist of large tents for cooking and dining and several smaller tents for sleeping. Camp II will be our base during the placements of Camp III and Camp IV (23,500ft and 25,912ft) respectively. Camp III, which stands at the head of the cirque on the Lhotse face, will consist of two and three men tents. This camp serves as an intermediate camp, which climbers will use to reach Camp IV. Most of our Sherpas are able to load ferry directly from Camp II to Camp IV. A large number of gears are not needed at Camp III to establish Camp IV. Oxygen will be used above Camp III to aid climbers in reaching high camp before attempting the summit. From Camp IV, we travel along the west ridge to the Summit. From here we traverse for a few hundred meters before reaching the main summit.

Trekking Route

Our approach to base camp trekking begins with a spectacular mountain flight to Lukla (gateway of Everest region). Once we reach there, it takes us couple hours to arrange porters and then starts walking along the Milk River (Dudh Koshi) for 2-3 hours and we'll reach a small village called Phaking (2,625m), where you are going to spend your first night in Everest area. The next day, trek to Namche Bazar(3,440m), which lies at the base of the Khumbu Himal. The trek will take approximately 10 days and travels from the Dudh Kosi valley up through the Imja valley and finally onto the Khumbu glacier. Along the way, we will visit Namche, Tengboche, Pheriche, Lobuche, and Gorekshep, all of which are fascinating and richly cultured villages, which provide spectacular views of the Himalayas. For acclimatization purposes, this trek is longer than usual. This also gives us the chance to explore the many different areas and take the time to visit local monasteries with Nepali Sherpa friends. Now you will have the option of a sunset or sunrise climb to the 5,550m' summit of Kala Pattar for a panoramic view of some of the world's highest mountains including Everest at 29,028ft. We'll make the 3-hour trek from Gorakshep to Everest Base Camp and continue our activities as per our expedition day-to-day plans.

TRIP HIGHTLIGHTS

Climb the world’s 4th highest peak, Mt. Lhotse (8,516m) with already summitted
Sherpa Guides and acclimatization pre-climb to Lobuche East (6,119m)
World’s best Climbing Sherpa guide to each climber
Excellent logistic set up at base camp with carpeted along with heated dining tent.
Personal 10x7 feet Box Tent to each climber at base camp
Enough Oxygen system will be stocked for any emergency purpose
Fully medical back up and smooth communication system on the mountain
WIFI at base camp
Regular weather forecast information
Most experienced Chef at base camp and his crew

DETAILS ITINERARY

Day 1
: Arrival in KTM, transfer to hotel& briefing

After you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you will have to go through custom formalities. You will be greeted by our representative who will be anxiously waiting for you with a placard displaying your name in his hand. You will be transferred to the 3-Star category hotel in a private vehicle. Once you get refreshed, you will get briefing regarding the itinerary and you will also be introduced with your crewmembers and other trekkers who are going to join you on the trip. Enjoy welcome dinner in the evening where you can taste authentic Nepali dinner. Stay overnight in a hotel.

Day 2
: Half day sightseeing and afternoon equipment checking and fitting

In the morning after breakfast, we will organize half day sightseeing tour during which you will be taken on memorable UNESCO Heritage Tour. Tour begins with visit to Nepal’s holiest Pashupatinath Temple Complex and takes us through Nepal’s largest Bouddhanath Stupa and 2500 years old Swoyambhunath Stupa. We will return to hotel in the afternoon and time for shopping of any missing items, equipment checking and getting ready for the trip.

Day 3
: Kathmandu; final preparation and packing

This is the preparation day. Expedition is a long and challenging activity. We need to get well prepared and equip ourselves with all necessary equipment and accessories for successful and enjoyable expedition.

Day 4
: Fly to Lukla (2840m), Trek to Phakding (2610m) 40min flight, 3-4hrs trek

We will drive to domestic terminal of Tribhuvan Airport early in the morning and catch a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. We will follow one of the most scenic air routes in the world with panoramic views of glistening mountains to Tenzing Hillary Airport in Lukla. Lukla allows access to Everest Khumbu region. We will assemble the crew and take breakfast before start of Everest3 Passes Trek and Island Peak. Following the stone path through Ghat village, we will reach Phakding village. Visit local monastery. Stay overnight in Phakding.

Day 5
Trek to Namche Bazaar (3,440m) 5-6hrs

Leaving Phakding, we will walk along Dudhkoshi River and enter the dense pine forest. We will cross suspension bridges and walk through dispersed houses of Zapute, Benkar and Chumoa to reach Monjo. Monjo allows an entrance to Sagarmatha National Park. We need to go through required national park formalities before we can enter the park. The park is rich in Himalayan herbs, plants, mammals and birds. We will descend to Hillary Bridge existing at the base of hill. After crossing the bridge, we will follow the escalating path towards Namche Bazaar. The path rewards us with views of Thamserku Mountain, Everest, Lhotse and other mountains and peaks. Stay overnight in Namche Bazaar.

Day 6
: Day hikes - Khumjung, Khunde (3840m

Namche Bazaar acts as the major trade centre to conduct trade in between locals and neighbouring Tibetans. Namche is also popular as the capital of Sherpa land. It is wise to take rest at Namche on this day. For proper acclimatization with the changing altitude, we can arrange day hike to small Khumjung and Khunde villages. Visit the local monastery and observe the local lifestyle. Head office of National Park, Museum and monasteries are interesting places near Namche. We can get most of the modern facilities including hospital and post office at Namche. Stay overnight in Namche.

Day 7
: Day hike to Thame (3,800m) 4-5hrs

Moving through the western Khumbu region, we will follow the scenic path that allows views of Himalayan wildlife. Thame is located at bit higher altitude than from Namche. It is a brief walk from Namche to Thame. Enjoy walking along yak caravans to and from Thame. This pretty village is popular among mountain climbers. We will visit Thame School in the afternoon. Explore around Thame and stay overnight.

Day 8
: Trek Tengboche (3,860m) visit monastery 5hrs

The trail continues along glaciated DudhKoshi River from Namche. We will follow the scenic route with views of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse and other peaks and mountains and enter the forest area. Walking through the colourful rhododendron forest, we can get opportunity to view musk deer and colourful Himalayn birds like Danphe and Munal. We will move further to Sanasa village. The trail branches at Sanasa. We will follow the main trail towards Everest Base Camp. Following the escalating path from Sanasa, we will reach Tengboche. Gate of Tengboche Monastery is open after 3pm. We will visit Tengboche Monastery which is the largest monastery in the region.

Day 9
Trek Dengboche (4,410m) inChhukungValley 5hrs

Leaving Tengboche, we will enter the birch and rhododendron forest. In couple of hours, we will reach Debuche from where we will lower down to beautiful Chhukung Valley. We will descend to Imja River and follow the raised path to Pangboche. Monastery is Pangboche is believed to be the oldest Monastery in the region. Walking along the Mani walls, we will climb to Pheriche. Walking along Lobuche River, we will reach Dengboche village. Stay overnight in Dengboche.

Day 10
Day hikes to NagarjunPeak (52,000m) 5hrs

Taking rest from trek at Dengboche helps to break the stress. It also helps in proper acclimatization. We will take short walk to Nagarjuna View Point located at Nagarjuna Peak. Enjoy the 360 degree mountain views of Makalu, Lhotse, Amadablam, Island Peak and other mountains. We will return to Dengboche for staying overnight.

Day 11
Trek to Lobuche (4,910m) 4hrs

From Dengboche, we will return to Pheriche. The trail continues through Dugla to the steep moraine of Khumbu glacier. We will head towards ChupkiLhara which is the memorial site for renowned climber BabuChhiri Sherpa. ChupkiLhara is decorated with prayer flags. Walking through the Khumbu glacier moraine, we will reach Lobuche. Enjoy the panoramic views of Pumori Peak, Khumbutse Peak and other peaks and mountains. Stay overnight in Lobuche.

Day 12
Trek to Gorakshep (5,150m) 3hrs

From Lobuche, we will follow short and easy path to Gorakshep. Once vast, the lake has shrunk significantly lately. Stay overnight at the bank of GorakShep Lake.

Day 13
Trek to Lhotse Base Camp(5200m) 2-3hrs

On this day, we will trek from Gorakshep to LhotseBase Camp. Once we reach the base camp, we will set up tents and stay overnight at base camp of Lhotse which exists beside Khumbu glacier.

Day 14-16
Acclimatization and preparations at base camp

First couple of days are dedicated for preparation to climb Lhotse. Guide will share Lhotse climbing strategy with team. He will also provide you with necessary instructions and teach you what to do and how should you call for help if in case of emergency. For proper acclimatization, we can make a side trip to nearby places.

Day 17-39
: Acclimatization, load ferries and route opening

During these days, we will make necessary arrangement for successful climbing of Lhotse Mountain. Sherpas will make way and fix cables wherever necessary and set up High camps. You can explore base camp for proper acclimatization.

Day 40-45
: Rest at the lower villages, Debouche

During these days, we will practice rotation of High Camps. This will help us to get acclimatized with sharply increasing altitude. We will climb to High Camp1 and return to Base Camp. Similarly, we will practice climbing to High Camp2 and then lower down further to Debouche. It is never wise to hurry to reach to the summit. Climbing should be slow and gradual.

Day 46-56
: Climbing up to campIV and summit push

After several days of preparation and acclimatization, we are finally ready to conquer Lhotse Mountain. We will choose the commercial route to climb Lhotse which starts from the north side of Lhotse. We need to walk through Khumbu icefall area. South face of Lhotse was climbed successfully for the first time on 1990. The western flank of Lhotse which is known as Lhotse Face rises at 40 and 50 degree pitches.
Base Camp to Camp 1(6065m)
Camp1 is perched at the top of Khumbu icefall. This Camp serves the purpose of transition from Base Camp to Camp2. There are crevasses near to Camp1. We will cross these crevasses with help of ladders.
Camp1 to Camp2 (6750m)
Camp2 exists in a lateral moraine at the base of west ridge. It is a safe place to prepare our camp and offers enchanting views of surrounding mountains. High altitude food will be served at this camp.
Camp2 to Camp3 (7100m)
We will set our Camp3 on ledge on Lhotse wall. Crossing glacier, we will make 40 degree climb and reach snowfield with help of fixed ropes.
Camp3 to Camp4 (7920m)
Camp4 is prepared near South Col. We need to cross two rock sections including Yellow Bands and Geneva Spur with help of fixed ropes before we can reach Camp4.
Camp4 to Summit (8516m) to Camp4
Finally, the wait is over. We will climb 40 degree slope and move through snow and ice to reach to the summit. We will enjoy the breath-taking views of summit and lower down to Camp4.

Day 57-58
Descent to base camp

We will return to Base Camp of Lhotse by passing through High Camp 3, High Camp 2 and High Camp1. Descending trail is bit easier. We will celebrate the successful ascend of Lhotse Mountain at Base Camp.

Day 59
: Trek to Pheriche 6hrs

Early in the morning after tea, we will clear the Base Camp and then head towards Pheriche where we will stay overnight.

Day 60
Trek to Namche 5hrs

After following the easy descending trail through rhododendron forest to Dudhkoshi River, we will walk past tapered gorges and once again follow the trail through forest area that is rich in Himalayan wildlife. Once we arrive at Sanasa, we will enjoy the view of Amadablam Mountain. Walking through the forested edge beyond Kyangjuma, we will reach Namche. Enjoy the views of Everest, Tengboche and other peaks and mountains. Stay overnight at Namche.

Day 61
Trek to Lukla 6hrs

From Namche, we will lower down to rhododendron forest and walk along Dudhkoshi River to Phakding. Walking past the walled road of Ghat, we will reach Lukla. Stay overnight in Lukla.

Day 62
: Fly back to Kathmandu

We will catch an early morning flight from Lukla to Kathmandu. This is rest day. Spend the day as you like. You can go for shopping in Thamel where you can buy souvenir items. We can also arrange for guided sightseeing tour. Alternatively, you can arrange your photo albums and jot down memories in your journal. Stay overnight in a hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 63-64
Free day in Kathmandu

Spend the days as you like. You can go for shopping in Thamel where you can buy souvenir items. We can also arrange for guided sightseeing tour. Alternatively, you can arrange your photo albums and jot down memories in your journal.

Day 65
: Depart for Int’l flight to home

You will be transferred to the Airport as per your schedule flight for international departure. Safe journey. We hope to see you soon.

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End Date

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HIRING OPTIONS

COST INCLUDES

Mt Lhotse Climbing Permit and all government taxes
National part permit fees
Khumbu Ice Fall Charges
Liaison officer wages, allowances and insurance
5 (five) nights, 3-star hotel accommodation on single room BB basis
All domestic flights with departure taxes
Cargo to & from Lukla of expedition loads
Client’s excess baggage to & from Lukla
Porters/Yaks to carry expedition loads to & from Base Camp (BC)
Expedition Sherpa Guide/Sirdar
Experienced & Professional high altitude Personal Climbing Sherpa on 1:1 ratio
Experienced Expedition Cooks and Kitchen helpers
Permanent kitchen facilities at Camp II
Quality single tent to each client at BC with sleeping mattress
Quality carpeted dinning tent with heater at BC
All necessary kitchen & camping equipment
Shower facility at base camp
Shower facility at base camp
All necessary group climbing hardware gears including the ropes
Highly preferable meals at BC and for the higher camps
All the hot drinks with beverages during the expedition
Quality high altitude freeze dried food & individual packet food
EPI gases with burner for high camps
POISK Oxygen (04 cylinders Per Client & 02 cylinders Per Sherpa)
Mask and Regulator to each client (to be retuned after expedition)
Walkie-talkie set to each client with radio base at BC
Satellite phone for the emergency calls (Personal call on payable basis)
Solar Panel/Generator with accessories at BC for recharging & power supply
Oxygen set at BC for medical purpose
Gamow bag /PAC at BC for medical purpose
DHA duffel bags to each client
Daily wages, equipment bonus of staff
Insurance of local team members
All airport/hotel transfers by private vehicle
Half day city tours in Kathmandu
Celebration meal in Kathmandu

COST EXCLUDES

High altitude coverage travel insurance
International Air ticket & any departures taxes
Personal climbing equipment
Cost of emergency evacuation and medical treatment cost
Cost of personal natures of expenses
Tips & Summit bonus to the local staff
Cost occurred due to delay and cancellation of flights, extension of trek and climbing period etc.

Fitness

Climbing at and above 8,000 meters is inherently dangerous and is not the place to be learning mountaineering and climbing skills. Any expedition that goes to 8,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 50km on flat ground in approximately6 hours. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability.
To get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 8 to 12 months to prepare yourself as a strong candidate. You can go to the fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for a couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week. On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 10 – 14 hours. On our all-8000m expeditions, we supply excellent logistics; good ratios of climbing support sherpas and the standard number of oxygen, which plays a vital role in the success and safe climb of the peak.

Experience Required

Dream Himalaya Adventuresstrongly suggest that you must climb a number of 6,000m peaks in order to gain mountaineering proficiency and also undertake a trip to one of the 7,000m peak or one of the technically difficult 6000m peak i.e. Mt. Amadablam or similar, where you experience expedition camping, higher altitude, and how to deal with the cold. If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.

You must have well knowledge about using mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will increase the chances of reaching the summit and also previous mountaineering experiences are mandatory but don’t require any high level of technical experience.

Crossing ladder on Khumbu Ice Fall on Mt Everest

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Testimonials

Maicen Stuart

Vancouver, Canada

I had the amazing opportunity of trekking through Khumbu, Nepal over Renjo La towards Gokyo lake and back down through Namche Bazaar. This trip would have been impossible without the incredible support of the Dream Himalaya Adventures team. They handled all of the logistics and support throughout the trip so that our experience could be completely stress free. The amazing staff is so kind, friendly, and some of the best people that you'll have the opportunity of becoming acquainted with. I'll be going back soon with Dream Himalaya and I recommend you do the same!

Melissa Karadana & Archie Gilmour

Nederland & United Kingdom

Dream Himalaya provided an unforgettable adventure led by our exceptional guide Karma. His expertise, coupled with his genuine love and joy for the mountains, made him an absolute joy to be with for three weeks. With his support and the rest of the team, we successfully climbed Lobuche Peak. We couldn't have achieved it without Dawa's professionalism, meticulous planning, and genuine care.

Pasang Yangjee Sherpa

Vancouver, Canada

Dream Himalaya Adventures is a great service provider. We trekked along the Bhote Koshi towards Nangpa La. Then, crossed Renjo La and spent some time in Gokyo before heading south along the Dudhkoshi to Chumoa. Pema and Kami are extremely helpful, thoughtful, and reliable. They made our trek very comfortable. Our hosts at the guesthouses were kind and generous. Dawa and his team provided great service. I highly recommend Dream Himalaya Adventures.

Declan Taylor

Vancouver, Canada

We took a slow pace trekking clockwise up and over the Renzo pass. It was a stunning journey: all of the guesthouses we stayed in were lovely (warm, clean, with delicious food), and our guides were so kind and caring! Pema and Kami were so fun to spend the trek with, flexible in our group's plans, and very thoughtful, helping us achieve all that we wanted to do. I hope to do another trek with Dream Himalaya Adventures in the future!

Jerick Ilao

Philippines

To: Dream Himalaya Adventures c/o Dawa, The service you have provided during my trek was superb. Your services are excellent and worthy of recommendation. You deserve this recognition and appreciation!!! There is always a touch of excellence in your work! Thank you and God bless! Keep it up!

Rex Poblete

Manila, Philippines

Thank you to Dawa and Dream Himalaya Adventures for making our trip an adventure of a lifetime! Very professional with outstanding communication even during our preparation. All our expectations were exceeded! Staff was very kind and professional as well. Shout out to our Sherpa Pasang and our porters for a job well done. They took care of us well. Thanks to my hiking buddies Gary and Vlad your the best! Dream Himalaya Adventures is the way to go! 🙏

Jordan Puchar

Perth, Australia

A great experience & adventure even though quite challenging. Dawa from Dream Himalayan Adventures was excellent & very accommodating ,he makes sure you are well equiped for the adventure ahead. The accommodation on the trek is serviceable & the food surprisingly very good considering the remoteness. The staff at base camp ,sherpas & porters are all friendly ,helpfull & know their stuff. I would be very happy to use Dream Himalaya Adventures again.

Gary Genio

Manila, Philippines

I’m so glad I chose Dream Himalaya to handle the logistics for my EBC Trek this April 2023. Everything was meticulously planned, handled and executed from the get go which enabled me to enjoy a great hassle free trek. Everything from thé coordinator, guides and sherpa were awesome. Truly world class service from the day you arrive at KTM until you say your goodbyes . These are the stuff dreams are made of .

Brian Pugsley

Perth Western Australia.

What an adventure ! in a beautiful location surrounded by beautiful people. I was treated like family by Dawa and Pasang. All I have is beautiful memories and superb photos. I loved Nepal / Himalayas/ Everest region and would only recommend Dawa and the team to trek with in Nepal.

Joe and Jenny

Perth, Australia

We had the best time with the team from Dream Himalaya Adventures they went above and beyond for me and my wife before, during and after our trip I will be 100% returning to do my trips with Dawa and his team

65 days

Price 2023 : USD 20300 Price 2024 : USD 21300

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