A very famous climber in the field of mountaineering expedition, Reinhold Messner made the fourth ascent of Manaslu as a member of a Tyroleam expedition that climbed the peak from the Marsyangdi valley in 1972. The South Korean attempt was in 1971 and in April 1972 an avalanche resulted in the death of five climbers and 10 Sherpas, and ended the second South Korean expedition.
First Ascent: 1956 by a Japanese expedition
Maximum elevation: 8163m
Ranking among the 14, 8000m peaks: 5th highest
Himal (Region): Mansiri, Gandaki
Latitude, Longitude: 28° 32’ 58”, 84° 33’ 43”
Trek into Manaslu Base Camp:
The trek to Base Camp (4,665m) takes about 8/9 days from Kathmandu and is up a steep path passing through rhododendron trees adjacent to spectacular hanging glaciers and rugged icefalls. The Base Camp is in a comfortable position on rock, which is protected from strong winds, but because of its particular location is susceptible to daily snowfalls, as the valley cloud happens to condense at this altitude.
High Camps and Climbing Routes:
We establish four high camps above base camp to climb Manaslu but some time we might have only three high camps.
BC to Camp I - there is a short walk of one hour over loose rock to the snout of the Larkya glacier, where it is the crampons point. It takes 4–5 hours to climb through the quite broken glacier to Camp-1 (5,700 m). This may require being roped in traditional glacier travel mode, although it may be possible to fix all potentially dangerous crevasse areas. The method of travel may change during the course of the expedition depending on snow conditions. Camp 1 is situated in a comfortable col.
Camp 1 to Camp 2 - From here, we climb up towards the massive icefall, but in fact pass underneath this to gain a steep snow slope that will be fixed with rope up to Camp-2 (6,400 m), travels through a series of snow shelves before ascending a steeper snow slope to reach a large col with spectacular views of the surrounding peaks. It will be a pretty long climb of about 3 – 4 hours.
Camp 2 to Camp 3 – It’s the shortest and comparatively easy climb day about 2 to 3 hours, the altitude of Camp 3 is 6,800m, we ascent only 400m while climbing Camp 2 to Camp 3.
Camp 3 to Camp 4 - From here, the route goes directly up the steeper northeast slopes, passing through a series of short ice bulges to reach an upper snow slope, which leads to a traverse to Camp-4 (7,400m), 6–7 hours.
Manaslu Summit attempt - It is still a long day up rolling snow slopes, with short, steep sections at times, and this could be in deep snow. Just below the true summit, at 5–6 hours, there is a comfortable place to stop and is where many people do stop. It is the intention to have enough rope, oxygen and time to push a fixed line up the last corniced, unstable ridge, so as long as this is safe at the time. Although this is only 50m vertically and 150m horizontally, this will take about 1.5 hours. The descent is fast and easy, reaching Camp-3 in 1–2 hours. It is best to return to Camp-2 on the same day, another 2–3 hours for a well-earned rest. With a late start from Camp-2, it is possible to be back at Base Camp for a late lunch.
Highlights of our Manaslu Expedition:
- An unforgettable and amazing trek to Manaslu Base Camp
- High probability of summit success with our most experienced Sherpa guides
- Our Sherpa guides are most professional and experienced with multiple summits on other 8000m peaks
- We provide personal Sherpa guide on the ratio of 1:1 P to each climber
- We stocked enough number of Oxygen and its system for safe climbing purpose
- Medical back up Oxygen and PAC bag at base camp
- We do best set ups along with excellent and high-quality logistics services
- Our base camp chef and crews are most experienced in the industry
Who and Why to climb Manaslu?
- Climb the world’s eighth highest peak, Mt. Manaslu with professional and already summited Sherpa Guides
- This climb is ideal for those who have previous mountaineering experiences with at least scaled one of the 6000m peak as well as high level of fitness.
- One of the perfect 8000m peak to attempt before going for Mt. Everest
- Most cost saving 8000m expedition than any other 8000m peak expedition
- Dream Himalaya Adventures provides excellent logistic services on this expedition with personal Sherpa guides to each climber
Our Manaslu Expedition Cost – 2021
Our Manaslu expedition cost for 2020 and 2021 has been already published on our website. Our expedition cost is reasonably cheaper and affordable however our service quality is much better than many others. We provide personal Sherpa guide to each climber for highest level of safety and maximum probabilities of summit success. We secure enough numbers of Oxygen cylinders and excellent level of communication managements for safe and successful climbing of the peak. Our full board support expedition cost for 2021 is USD 12,970.00 per/climber. The best season to climb Manaslu is autumn season, our expedition starts late Aug until 2nd week of October. Or you can click on this link to find more detail information of the expedition - http://dreamhimalayaadventures.com/mt-manaslu-expedition-8163m.html
Day 01: Arrival in KTM, transfer to hotel& briefing
Day 02: Half day sightseeing and afternoon equipment checking and fitting
Day 03: Kathmandu; final preparation and packing
Day 04: Drive to Dharapani via Beshishar (1960m), 7+5 hours
Day 05: Trek to Yak Kharka (3020m), 5hrs
Day 06: Trek to Bimtang (3,590m), 5hrs
Day 07: Acclimatization hiking day in Bimtang
Day 08: Trek over Larkey Pass (5160m) and to Samdo (3,875m) – 9/10 hrs
Day 09: Trek to Sama Goan (3,520m) – 6hrs.
Day 10: Rest and acclimatization day in Sama Gaon
Day 11: Trek to Manaslu Base camp (4400m), 5hrs
Day 12- 14: Acclimatization and preparation at Base Camp
Day 15– 38: Acclimatization, load ferries, route opening, summit attempt of Mt. Manaslu (8,163m) and descent to the base camp
Day 39: Trek to Sama Gaon (3,560m)
Day 40-43: Trek to Dharapni and drive to KTM
Day 44: Extra day in Kathmandu
Day 45: Final Departure to home