Mt. Manaslu Expedition (8,163m) - 45 days

Mt. Manaslu Expedition - Brief Introduction

Mt. Manaslu, (8,163m) the eighth highest mountain in the world, is located about forty miles east of Annapurna I. Mt. Manaslu was first climbed in 1956 by a Japanese expedition. It is one of the most popular among the 8000m peaks for climbing in the Himalayas of Nepal and especially for Japanese Climbers. The mountain's long ridges and valley glaciers offer feasible approaches from all directions. Possible avalanches in bad weather, crevasses, and slippery snow in between camp II and I, makes this mountain a little distinct from other mountains in Nepal. Normally 3 high camps are established to attempt the summit. This mountain is a good choice for those climbers wishing to climb one of the 8,000m peaks of the Himalayas and as a preparation climb for Mt.Everest.  

HW Tilman and Jimmy Roberts photographed Manaslu during a trek in 1950, while a Japanese expedition in 1952 made the first real survey of the peak.

A very famous climber in the field of mountaineering expedition, Reinhold Messner made the fourth ascent of Manaslu as a member of a Tyroleam expedition that climbed the peak from the Marsyangdi valley in 1972 

A Japanese team made the first serious attempt at the peak from the Buri-Gandaki valley in 1953 when another team followed in 1954. The second successful Japanese expedition was in 1971. The South Korean attempt was in 1971 and in April 1972 an avalanche resulted in the death of five climbers and 10 Sherpas and ended the second South Korean expedition.

Climbing Routes and High Camp

• The trek to Base Camp (4,665m) takes about 8/9 days from Kathmandu and is up a steep path passing through rhododendron trees adjacent to spectacular hanging glaciers and rugged icefalls. The Base Camp is in a comfortable position on rock, which is protected from strong winds, but because of its particular location is susceptible to daily snowfalls, as the valley cloud happens to condense at this altitude.
• There is a short walk of one hour over loose rock to the snout of the Larkya glacier, where it is the crampons point. It takes 4–5 hours to climb through the quite broken glacier to Camp-1 (5,700 m). This may require being roped in traditional glacier travel mode, although it may be possible to fix all potentially dangerous crevasse areas. The method of travel may change during the course of the expedition depending on snow conditions. Camp 1 is situated in a comfortable col.
• From here, we climb up towards the massive icefall, but in fact pass underneath this to gain a steep snow slope that will be fixed with rope up to Camp-2 (6,400 m), travels through a series of snow shelves before ascending a steeper snow slope to reach a large col with spectacular views of the surrounding peaks. It will be a pretty long climb of about 3 – 4 hours.
• Camp 2 to Camp 3 is the shortest and comparatively easy climb day about 2 to 3 hours, the altitude of Camp 3 is 6,800m, we ascent only 400m while climbing Camp 2 to Camp 3.
• From here, the route goes directly up the steeper northeast slopes, passing through a series of short ice bulges to reach an upper snow slope, which leads to a traverse to Camp-4 (7,400m), 6–7 hours.
• The summit, which has been elusive since Sama-Goan, is deceptively close. However, it is still a long day up rolling snow slopes, with short, steep sections at times, and this could be in deep snow.  Just below the true summit, at 5–6 hours, there is a comfortable place to stop and is where many people do stop. It is the intention to have enough rope, oxygen and time to push a fixed line up the last corniced, unstable ridge, so as long as this is safe at the time. Although this is only 50m vertically and 150m horizontally, this will take about 1.5 hours.
• The descent is fast and easy, reaching Camp-3 in 1–2 hours. It is best to return to Camp-2 on the same day, another 2–3 hours for a well-earned rest. With a late start from Camp-2, it is possible to be back at Base Camp for a late lunch.
• It will take 1–2 days to clear the camps on the mountain before the descent to Samagoan, we must allow 5 - 6 days of duration to trek back to KTM. The other option to return to KTM is fly by Chopper, Sama to KTM on sharing cost basis about USD 500 per/person.  

TRIP HIGHTLIGHTS

• Medical back up Oxygen and Gamov bag at base camp
• An unforgettable and amazing trek to Manaslu Base Camp
• Oxygen cylinders and Mask set for climbing purpose
• 1:1 ratios of climbing Sherpa support for summit push
• Climb the world’s eighth highest peak, Mt.Manaslu with professional and already summitted&Sherpa Guides

Fitness Requirement for Mt. Manaslu Expedition

Climbing at and above 8,000 meters is inherently dangerous and is not the place to be learning mountaineering and climbing skills. Any expedition that goes to 8,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 50km on flat ground in approximately6 hours. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability.

In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 8 to 12 months to prepare yourself as a strong candidate. You can go to the fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for a couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week.    On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 10 – 14 hours. On our all-8000m expeditions, we supply excellent logistics; good ratios of climbing support sherpas and a standard quantity of oxygen, which plays a vital role in the success and safe climb of the peak.

Experience Requirement for Mt. Manaslu Expedition

Dream Himalaya Adventures strongly suggest that you must climb a number of 6,000m peaks in order to gain mountaineering proficiency and also undertake a trip to one of the 7,000m peak or one of the technically tricky 6000m peak i.e. Mt. Amadablam or similar, where you experience expedition camping, higher altitude, and how to deal with the cold. If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
You must have well knowledge about using mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will increase the chances of reaching the summit and also previous mountaineering experiences are mandatory but don’t really require any high level of technical experience.