Mt. Kanchenjunga Expedition (8,586m) - 65 days

Mt. Kanchenjunga (8,586m) is the 3rd tallest mountain in the world situated in eastern part of Nepal at 8,586m and it was first climbed by a British man Mr. George Christopher in May 25th, 1955. It is located on the border of Nepal and Sikkim, just 46 miles northwest of Darjeeling. It is the most easterly of the great 8,000 meter peaks of the Himalaya. It is an enormous mountain mass. The peak consists of four summits. The west summit, Yalung Kang, is 8,420m high and some people classify it as a separate 8000m peak. It stretches southward from Jonsang La to LangpoPeak, Pyramid Peak, and NepalPeak - all on India's border. It continues further from TalungPeak and Kabru North and South Peaks to the Twin Peaks of Rathong and Kokthan. To the west of Jonsang La, on Tibet's border, are JongsangPeak, Outlier, Lashar, Chabuk, and OhnmiKangri. This then, is the Kangchenjunga Region which is also called as the "GREAT SNOW MOUNTAIN OF FIVE TREASURES". Further south lie Nupchu and Sharpu.

British botanist JD Hooker is the first westerner to explore Kanchenjunga, who visited the area twice in 1848 and 1849. Exploration of the Sikkim side of the peak continued with both British and pundit explorers mapping and photographing until 1899. In that year a party led by Douglas Freshfield made a circuit of Kanchenjunga and produced what is still one of the most authoritative maps of the region.

In 1976, 1973 and 1974, the Japanese took up the challenge and they climbed Yalung Kang. A German Expedition climbed Yalung Kang in 1975, and in 1977 an Indian army team had made a second successful expedition to the main peak of Kanchenjunga.

Climb of Mt. Kanchenjunga begin from a charming base camp in the meadows of Panorama at 4,500 m. This provides the most challenging climbing of the expedition. Mt.Kanchenjunga is considered as one the difficult and challenging 8000m peak and to climb this peak, the climber needs an extensive experiences & skills in the mountaineering. Therefore, before attempting this peak, climber must have climbed at least one 7000m & 8000m peaks. To put the fixed lines and establishment of the three & four high camps are most challenging part of this expedition. So the supports of Sherpa are the most essential for the success of this expedition. Using Sherpa supports and oxygen, you can move higher and higher up the mountain at a systematically slow velocity. This is a highly satisfying climb for the expert Climbers.

Climbing Routes and High Camps

We climb the Mt.Kanchenjunga via the normal route (South Face), but we can also climb the peak via North Face route.

Our expedition to Mt. Kanchenjunga begins with flight to Bhadrapur and drive to Tharpu. We will start our walk from Tharpu for 10 days to Kanchenjunga Base Camp at 4,500 meters. We'll ascend via the South Face/normal route establishing 4 high camps on the mountain. Our strong & professional high altitude climbing Sherpas will fix ropes as required. Depending on our fitness, we'll be moving up and down the mountain several times, acclimatizing and stocking the higher camps. This expedition is fully supported with all the base camp & high camp logistics. Teamwork is vital for successfully scaling the summit of Mt Kanchenjuna.

TRIP HIGHTLIGHTS

Expedition will be finished after summiting the Mt Kanchenjunga
Expert & experienced cook and crews
Excellent & comfortable logistics at base camp
Medical back up Oxygen set and Gamow bag at base camp
Oxygen cylinders and Mask set for climbing purpose
Unbelievable and amazing trek into the deepest to Kanchenjunga (ideal environment for musk beer, blue sheep and the infamous yeti)
1:1 Personal Climbing Sherpa to each client
Climb the world’s 3rd highest peak, Mt. Kanchenjuna with professional and already summited Sherpa Guides

DETAILS ITINERARY

Day 1
Arrival in KTM, transfer to hotel & briefing

After you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you will have to go through custom formalities. You will be greeted by our representative who will be anxiously waiting for you with a placard displaying your name in his hand. You will be transferred to the 3-Star category hotel in a private vehicle. Once you get refreshed, you will get briefing regarding the itinerary and you will also be introduced with your crewmembers and other trekkers who are going to join you on the trip. Enjoy welcome dinner in the evening where you can taste authentic Nepali dinner. Stay overnight in a hotel.

Day 2
Half day sightseeing and afternoon equipment checking and fitting

In the morning after breakfast, we will organize half day sightseeing tour during which you will be taken on memorable UNESCO Heritage Tour. Tour begins with visit to Nepal’s holiest Pashupatinath Temple Complex and takes us through Nepal’s largest Bouddhanath Stupa and 2500 years old Swoyambhunath Stupa. We will return to hotel in the afternoon and time for shopping of any missing items, equipment checking and getting ready for the trip.

Day 3
Kathmandu; final preparation and packing

This is the preparation day. Expedition is a long and challenging activity. We need to get well prepared and equip ourselves with all necessary equipment and accessories for successful and enjoyable expedition.

Day 4
Fly to Bhadrapur (40min) and drive to Phedim (6hrs)

It takes 40minutes of flight to take us to Bhadrapur from Kathmandu. The flight is scenic with close-up views of Jugal Mountain, Langtang Mountain, Makalu Mountain, Kanchenjunga Mountain and other peaks and mountains. After landing in Bhadrapur airport then we start our drive journey to Phedim for about 6 hrs. Stay overnight at Phedim at a guesthouse.

Day 5
Continue drive to Khamdembe (6/7 hrs)

After breakfast in the morning, we start our 2nd driving day to Khamdembe, from where we start our trekking journey to the Kanchenjunga Base Camp. The drive will be about 6 hours to maximum to 8 hours. These area is less tourist visited area so food and accommodation are very basic, more or less Nepali traditional meals. We stay in Khamdembe in a local teahouse/guesthouse.

Day 6
Trek to Mamankhe (1785m) 5-6hrs

Leaving Khesewa, we will lower down through series of waterfall. Crossing a bridge over Nadewa River, we will walk past a huge tree and head north towards Yanpang. After brief rest at Yangpang, we will walk through forest area to a ridge at 1850m. Another half an hour of trek from the ridge will take us to Phumphe (1860m). We will cross NandevaRiver and climb uphill to Mamankevillage where we will stay overnight.

Day 7
Trek to YamphudinBhoteGoan (1692m) 5-6hrs

Following the ascending trail located above Kabeli River, we will reach to the top of ridge from where we will lower down to the river. Crossing a suspension bridge over the river, we will walk pastchorten and traverse landslide prone area to Kabeli River. We will climb uphill from river along west bank to reach Yamphudin (1692m) village which is located beneath DeuraliDanda ridge. Stay overnight at Yamphudin.

Day 8
Trek to Tortong/Torangdin (2,995m) 6hrs

We need to climb higher from Yamphudin. Our journey continues through forest and meadow area and takes us down to Omje River. Crossing the river over a bridge, we will climb uphill for about 3hours to reach Deurali Hill. Lowering down from Deurali Hill, we will re-enter forest and make sharp descend to Simjua River. Crossing the river over wooden bridge, we will reach Tortong where we will stay overnight.

Day 9
Trek to Cheram(3,860m) 7hrs

After an early morning tea, we will continue our trek along the river and enter rhododendron forest area. Following uphill climb from the valley, we will enjoy the view of Yalung Glacier, Kabru and Rathong peak as we reach Tsento Kang (3360m). We will walk past Watha and take an hour of walk to Cheram. Stay overnight at Cheram.

Day 10
Trek to Ramche(4,610m) 5hrs

Leaving Cheram, we will walk through tree-line area to Mirgin La. Our trail continues along mani wall at 4040m to the alpine meadow. We will enjoy the views of Rathong (6678m) and Kabru (6700m) peaks and climb along moraine of Yalung Glacier to yak pasture atYolung Bara. Heading north towards Lapsang Lake (4433m), we will reach the flat valley at Ramche (4610m). Stay overnight at Ramche.

Day 11 & 12
Rest and acclimatize days at Ramche

We will take much needed and well-earned break from strenuous trek on these days. On the first day of rest, we will take short hike up to the nearby ridge for the first close-up view of southern wall of Kanchenjunga Mountain. Explore around Ramche and prepare for challenging climb to the summit of Kanchenjunga.

Day 13
Trek to Glacier Camp (4,900m) 5hrs

We will leave Ramche and follow the scenic trail to Oktang (4630m). The trail takes us down to glacier where we will set our camp for overnight stay. We can enjoy views of Kumbhakarna Glacier, MountJannu (7710m) and other peaks and mountains.

Day 14
Trek to Kanchenjuna South Base Camp (5475m) 6hrs

From Glacier Camp, we will walk through moraine and barren land all the way to South Base Camp of Kanchenjunga. We can enjoy the picturesque view of south face of Kanchenjunga Mountain from most of the point of trek. Once we reach at South Base Camp, we will set our camp and stay overnight at Base Camp.

Day 15-16
Acclimatization and preparations at base camp

First couple of days are dedicated for preparation to climb Kanchenjunga. Guide will share Kanchenjunga climbing strategy with team. He will also provide you with necessary instructions and teach you what to do and how should you call for help if in case of emergency. For proper acclimatization, we can make side trip to nearby places. We will pack food and prepare our gear.

Day 17-53
Acclimatization, load ferries, route opening, summit attempt of Mt. Kanchenjunga (8,586m) and descent to the base camp

We will make necessary arrangement for successful climbing of Kanchenjunga Mountain. Sherpas will make way and fix cables wherever necessary and set up High camps. Once we are ready, we will begin to climb Kanchenjunga via South Face. There will be four High Camps before we reach summit. High Camp 1 will be located at 6200m. Similarly, High Camp 2 will be located at 6400m. High Camp3 will be located at 7000m. High Camp4 will be located at 7550m.
Leaving our base camp, we will walk through glacier to the bottom of face at 5600m from where we will walk along spur and climb 60 to 70 degree slopes to reach Camp1 that exists at an altitude of 6200m. Enjoy the views of Jannu, Kabru and other peaks and mountains. We will make a slow climb and spend few days in each camp for acclimatization. Rotation of camps is a significant strategy that helps us in acclimatization process. Passing through ceracs and crevasses through fixed cables and ropes, we will reach to Camp 4. Following the vertical rock section, we will reach to the summit. We will enjoy the breath-taking views of surrounding peaks and mountains and return to Base Camp where we will stay celebrate the successful climb of Kanchenjunga and stay overnight.

Day 54
Trek to Cheram (3,860m) 7-8hrs

Leaving Kanchenjunga Base Camp early in the morning, we willretrace the route to Cheram/ Tseram via Ramche. We will follow the descending trail for most of the day. Expect to walk for about 7 to 8hours. We need to cross Mirgin La Pass from where we can enjoy the scenic view of Lapsang La glacier. Stay overnight at Cheram.

Day 55
Trek to Torangdin, 6hrs

We will begin our trek by entering forest area. Walking along the landslide area, we will arrive at Tsento Kang located at 3360m. We will arrive at the local Buddhist shrine in about an hour from where we will descend to Simbua River and walk through forest area to Lamite Bhanjyang. We stay overnight in Torangdin to follow the newly open trekking route to Taplejung.

Day 56
Trek to Hellok (6hrs) crossing over the Yasang danda

From Torangdin, we will follow the shorter and newly open route to Taplejung. We trek over the Yasang danda to Hellok and continue to Ranipul, from where next morning we will be able to take the local jeeps to Taplejung, this route will cuts few extra days via Yamphudin, we will stay overnight in Ranipul/Hellok.

Day 57
Drive to Taplejung (6hrs)

After an early morning tea, and breakfast, we start our drive to Taplejung, the road is dirt road so it wont be so smooth drive as city drive. We will reach to Taplejung in the middle of the day, so that we will have lunch in Taplejung and catch the hot shower etc in Taplejung with beers. We stay in a guesthouse in Taplejung.

Day 58
Drive to Bhadrapur (8hrs) and fly to KTM the same day

We start our drive to Bhadrapur very early morning about 5am so that we catch up the evening flight to KTM the same day from Bhadrapur to Kathmandu. We staright drive to Bhadrapur airport, check in and fly to KTM.

Day 59
Free day and group celebration dinner in KTM

Spend the days as you like. You can go for shopping in Thamel where you can buy souvenir items. You can arrange your photo albums and jot down memories in your journal. Celebration dinner will be served in the evening to commemorate the successful climbing of Kanchenjunga Mountain.

Day 60
: Final Departure

You will be transferred to the Airport as per your schedule flight for international departure. Safe journey. We hope to see you soon.

Start Date

End Date

Availability

Price

Min.

COST INCLUDES

Mt. Kanchenjunga Climbing Permit and all government taxes
National park/Conservation permit fees
Liaison officer wages, allowances and insurance
5 (five) nights, 3 star hotel accommodation on single room BB basis
All location transport by private vehicle
Porters/Yaks to carry expedition loads to & from Base Camp (BC)
Expedition Sherpa Guide/Sirdar
Experienced & Professional high altitude Personal Climbing Sherpa on 1:1 ratio
Experienced Expedition Cooks and Kitchen helpers
Quality single tent to each client at BC with sleeping mattress
Quality dinning tent at BC
All necessary kitchen & camping equipment
Shower facility at base camp
Quality high altitude tents for the higher camps
All necessary group climbing hardware gears including the ropes
Highly preferable meals at BC and for the higher camps
All the hot drinks with beverages during the expedition
Quality high altitude freeze dried food & individual packet food
EPI gases with burner for high camps
POISK Oxygen (04 cylinders Per Client & 02 cylinders Per Sherpa)
Mask and Regulator to each client (to be retuned after expedition)
Walkie-talkie set to each client with radio base at BC
Satellite phone for the emergency call (Personal call on payable basis)
Solar Panel/Generator with accessories at BC for recharging & power supply
Oxygen set at BC for medical purpose
Gamow bag /PAC at BC for medical purpose
DHA duffel bags to each client
Daily wages, equipment bonus of staff
Insurance of local team members
All airport/hotel transfers by private vehicle
Half day city tours in Kathmandu
Celebration meal in Kathmandu

COST EXCLUDES

High altitude coverage travel insurance
International Air ticket & any departures taxes
Personal climbing equipment
Cost of emergency evacuation and medical treatment cost
Cost of personal natures of expenses
Tips & Summit bonus to the local staff
Cost occurred due to delay and cancellation of flights, extension of trek and climbing period etc

Fitness
Climbing at and above 8,000 meters is inherently dangerous and is not the place to be learning mountaineering and climbing skills.Any expedition that goes to 8,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 50km on flat ground in approximately6 hours. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability.
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 8 to 12 months to prepare yourself as strong candidate. You can go to fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week. On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 10 – 14 hours. On our all-8000m expeditions, we supply excellent logistics; good ratios of climbing support sherpas and standard number of oxygen, which plays the vital roll for the success and safe climb of the peak.

Experience
Dream Himalaya Adventuresstrongly suggest that you must climb a number of 6,000m peaks in order to gain mountaineering proficiency and also undertake a trip to one of the 7,000m peak or one of the technically difficult 6000m peak i.e. Mt. Amadablam or similar, where you experience expedition camping, higher altitude, and how to deal with the cold.If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
You must have well knowledge about using of mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will increase the chances of reaching thesummit andalso previous mountaineering experiences is mandatory but doesn’t really require any high level of technical experience.