Mt. LHAKPA-RI (7,045m/23,000ft) is one of the major mountaineering destinations in Tibet. It is very close toMount Everest. George Mallory who was on his way to the Everest Reconnaissance in 1921 first climbed it and he had seen its North Col. Expedition mountaineering teams still follow the same route in order to make the summit. The summit view from Lhakpa-Ri rivals that from many of the world's greatest mountains. It gives very unusual views of some of the world's best-known mountains and excellent views of some very little known mountains.
Mt. Lakpa Ri is just over the milestone altitude of 7,000m, making it higher than anything outside Asia and is probably the most climbable 7,000m peak in the world. It's an ideal objective, remarkably positioned just across the glacier from Everest. It shares the historic route up the East Rongbuk Glacier and is climbable by a relatively safe and straightforward route.
There are two major ways to start the expedition, one, you fly to the beautiful & traditional city Lhasa and another way is via a drive from Kathmandu and Zangmu/Naylam, Tingri & Base Camp (5200m). The visits to Lhasa, the overland journey across the Tibetan Plateau, the trek in the footsteps of Mallory and a climb with awesome views of Everest, are the ingredients of a very special expedition. It will also give you a life-long impression of Tibet and its people and an insight and deep respect for the achievements of the early Everest pioneers. After reaching the base camp, you have to spend few days for acclimatization. In order to start your real climb toward the summit, you should start your expedition ahead towards the two middle camps, with the preparation of loading yaks and expedition crews. Continuing ahead on this track you reach the Advance Base Camp, which is situated at a height of 6400m. From ABC, start early in the morning; and continue crossing the Rongbuk glacier. There are few crevasses and slopes from the Rongbuk and Kharta glacier and they are relatively low angled which are linked by the Lhakpa pass 6848m; and it is just to the North of Lhakpa-Ri until you reach the very foot of the slope, leading you to the North ridge of the Summit. The routes are 20-30 degree vertical elevations. This route is not so hard but the vertical way is very long. Follow the way of the North ridge and on the other side you will see Kharta glacier and the views of North Col of Everest. The same way of the ridge leads up to the Summit of Lhakpa-Ri
High Camps and Climbing Routes
We will establish our base camp at ~5200m at a big ground above Rongbuk before making our way to high camps and Advance Base Camp. Once our acclimatization in and around base camp will be completed, then we'll start our summit bit establishing two middle camps in between BC & ABC, i.e. Camp 1 at altitude of 5,460m, Changtse Base Camp at (6,008m) and our trek continues for Advance Base Camp, where we do our preparations and acclimatization “go higher and sleep at lower”. Once we are ready then we go for the summit attempt and same day descent all the way to ABC, which takes about 10 – 12 hours. Climbing up to the summit of Lakpa-RI is not technically difficult, but general knowledge to play with the climbing gears is helpful and high level of fitness is required.
After final preparations in Kathmandu, we will drive by private bus from Kathmandu to Kodari (a small border town). Complete necessary immigration formalities and cross the Chinese border and drive to Zangmu by land cruiser/bus. We will drive all the way to Base Camp spending 5 days time, which includes acclimatization days at Naylam & Tingri.
If the trip is planned to fly direct to Lhasa then, we spend about 3 nights, 2 full days in Lhasa doing some sight seen tours and acclimatization. From Lhasa, we will take a drive by land cruiser or by bus for Base Camp, spending about 4/5 days and this will give us additional opportunity to explore the land of Tibet and visiting ancient cities of Tibet i.e. Gyantse (3990m), Shegar (4050m) and Shigatse (3,860m).
Day 1Arrive in Kathmandu, transfer to Hotel& briefing
Day 2Tours, equipment checks and last minute preparation
Day 3Fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa (3660m), O/N hotel
Day 4-5Sightseeing in Lhasa (3,660m)
Day 6Drive to Shigatse (3,900m) 280 km, O/N at Guesthouse
Day 7Drive to Shegar (4,050m) 244kmO/N at Guesthouse
Day 8Rest day at Shegar for acclimatizations
Day 9-10Drive Base Camp (5200m) 75km& Acclimatisation
Day 11Trek to Camp 1 (5,460m)
Day 12Trek to Changtse Base Camp (6,008m)
Day 13Trek to Advance Base Camp - ABC (6400m)
Day 14-15Rest and acclimatisation
Day 16Climb up to crampons point and return to ABC
Day 17Acclimatisation and final preparation for summit attempt
Day 18Ascend to Lhakpa-Ri (7045m)
Day 19Emergency day summit attempt
Day 20Return to Base Camp
Day 21Drive Tingri
Day 22Drive to Keyrong
Day 23Drive to KTM, transfer to hotel, rest, shower
Day 24Free day in Kathmandu
Day 25Depart for Int’l flight to home
Any expedition that goes to 7,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 20km on flat ground in under 2.5 hours and walk with a very light pack for 100km in less than 20 hours on a mixture of flat and hilly terrain. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability. Upper body strength will not be a big factor in this climb, more legs and lungs.
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 6 to 8 months to prepare yourself as strong candidate. You can go to fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e.10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week. However during climbing and acclimatization, there might be little symptoms of altitude illness like mild headache, fatigue etc. but take it as normal and just drink a lot of water (4 – 5 liters) every day. On this trek, youneed to be able to hike 6 – 10 hours over hilly terrain up to 6,000m of altitude with daypack.On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 12 – 14 hours. We will have porters to carry our heavy camping equipment, food and also the climbing gears.
This trip is aimed at the moderately experienced climber and/or very fit athlete wanting to test them at high altitude before attempting the 8000m peak. Suitable experience would be a past climbing trip to one of the 6,000m peak in the Himalayas (i.e. Island Peak 6,160m, Lobuche Peak 6,119m, Mera Peak 6,476m or any other one), or have completed technical mountaineering course and a good level of proficiency with leading rock climbs combined withiceand skiing experiences. If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
You must have well knowledge about how to play with mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will surely increase the chances of reaching thesummit and also previous trekking and mountaineering experiences is mandatory butdoesn’t really require any extreme technical experience.
Dream Himalaya is an awesome outfitter! The Guides, Porters, and Dawa are trustworthy and easy to talk to... It's these kind people that makes your trip hassle and worry free. Highly recommend!
The EBC trek is incredible and highly recommended with stunning scenery and good people. DHA's guides and porters are great and took very good care of us. If you are looking for a great trek in the Himalaya's then this one is for you!
Patrick & Geoff - Basecamp 2019 Dawa Sherpa and his team were exceptional in their care and aid of out Basecamp trek for 2019. It was an amazing experience not only to see and feel the mountains but also to speak to his crew and learn about the region and trekking/mountaineering in general. They were always ready to help whenever we needed. We will certainly be coming back to Nepal and the Himalayas again. Most definitely through Dream Himalaya Adventures. Patrick Nhim
Wow wow wow! Ok so the scenery was awesome - that’s a given! The food was nutritional and hot! Sleeping was easy because the body was ready for rest. But the team at Dream Himalaya Adventures could not have been better selected. Nothing was a problem. Anything was possible. If you wanted it, you got it! Their main aim is to get you to your destination and back safely and for you to enjoy the entire experience. If we weren’t eating enough, they encouraged us to fuel up. If we weren’t drinking enough “pani” (water), they stopped us for a drink break. If we walked too quickly (I’m amazed some of our team members could), they reminded us to walk “bistari bistari” (slowly slowly) to
I have recently returned from touring and trekking with Dream Himalayas Adventures team with Dawa and his Sherpas. The highlights of my trip was the stunning scenery on the trek and the friendly people of Nepal. It was definitely a life changing experience and i would love to do it again some day with my daughter. Dawa and his team were amazing i found them very organized, caring and friendly which impressed me.
We had a beautiful trip! From the very first contact with Dawa a few months before to the airport drop off, Dream Himalayan Advantures provided excellent service, answered questions quickly, and took wonderful care of our team. Their guides were so friendly and very competent in what they do. We had a big team of 10 people, but they were able to meet each person’s needs. Would definitely work with them again!
Dawa S. Lama of the Dream Himalaya Adventures has provided services for the expedition to Jannu (Kumbhakarna), 7711m via South East route. The expedition took place between February and April 2019. It combined a documentary film project “The Wall of Shadows” about the life of Sherpas” Dawa’s insight, a phenomenal attention to detail and discipline, his admirable communication skills, polite and respectful manner, an ease of problem solving, open-mindedness, generosity and adaptability to unusual requirements from the film team were the qualities that put Dawa and his Agency at the top of the list of the most reliable agents in Nepal. We sincerely recommend the Agency and trust any expedition or trekking party will be fully satisfied and comes home from the Himalaya
My experience with Dream Himalaya Adventures was excellent! Dawa Sherpa took care of every detail before and after our trek. I felt very confident in his abilities. All of our drivers and guides were most helpful and informative. Our trek guide, Sherku Sherpa, was exceptional, and he took very good care of us. We had an incredible adventure with stunning scenery every day. I highly recommend Dream Himalaya Adventures to anyone seeking an unparalleled experience in and around the Himalaya!
It was our second trek with Dream Himalaya Adventures and we loved it. We had so much fun with our guide Tendi and Rajesh who also works for DHA. The experience on a trek like this made us feeling like friends rather than clients. It's not only about hiking, you also learn a lot about the Nepalese culture and nature. The feeling of waking up early to see the sunrise at Poon Hill surrounded by the highest mountains in the world is incredible. This was an experience we will never forget and definitely the highlight of our trek. Thank you Dawa for making it possible and organizing everything so well! See you soon!
Dream Himalaya Adventures provided us the best mother / daughter trip that we could experience. We could not have chosen a better agency for our trek to Langtang and Helambu area. Dawa was very helpful from the first email contact. He did not only organize the trek but also the airport pick-up, city tour and all preparations needed with our guide Tendi. Tendi was the best guide that we could wish for. He was not only funny and entertaining and also gave us a glimpse into his culture and his life in Nepal as a professional mountaineer. He really cared about our health and well being during day and night which was very important for our mothers. We enjoyed the trip
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