Mt. Shishapangma (8,013m), the 14th highest peak of the world, straight forward climbs and less technically demanding, an excellent mountain for climbers wanting to scale their first 8,000m peak without taking much risk.
Mt. Shishapangma, 8013m, "the range above the grassy plain" was first climbed by a Chinese expedition team in 1964 consisting of 10 expedition members, led by XǔJìng. It is located in the central Himalaya and lies totally inside Tibet. To the east lies Mt.Molamenchen, the west – Mt.Xifeng and Mt.Nandengri and to the northwest Mt.Kangbochen.
There are three distinct climbing routes on the Southwest face with several other logical possibilities on the West Ridge and East face.
Climbing Shishapangma is a great opportunity to escape the crowds of the busier mountains like Mt. Everest and Cho-Oyu while challenging one's self on an 8000m peak. This is a beautiful climb that sees only a fraction of the traffic of Cho-Oyu just to the South-east. It is the only 8000m peak completely within China and towers above the Tibetan plateau. Although Shishapangma lies in a remote area, it's within 10 hours by jeep from Kathmandu via the FriendshipBridge, making it one of the most accessible 8000m mountains
We climb the Mt.Shishapangma using the North face route, which is normal route of the mountain and on request for a private team, we can run via the South face route as well. The route on Shishapangma starts with a jeep ride from Nyalam town to the spectacular Base Camp (5,000m). From BC we have yak support to ABC (5,400m). We establish three higher camps above ABC. The climb to Camp-1 (6,200m) and to Camp-2 (6,700m) is straightforward glacier travel. From C2 the route steepens as it climbs a rocky gulley leading to Camp- 3 (7,400m). From C3 the summit ridge gets steeper, up to 60 degrees, but it is direct and leads right to the Central Summit (8007m). The route between the Central Summit and the Main Summit (8,013m) is quite difficult and requires traversing a sharp ridge crest. If the conditions are acceptable, we will try to go to the Main Summit. Our strong & professional high altitude climbing Sherpas will fix ropes as required. Depending on our fitness, we'll be moving up and down the mountain several times, acclimatizing and stocking the higher camps. This expedition is fully supported by all the base camp & high camp services.
After final preparations in Kathmandu, we will fly to Lhasa then, we spend about 2 nights in Lhasa doing some sight seen tours and acclimatization. From Lhasa, we will take a drive by land cruiser or by bus for Base Camp, spending about 3 nights along the way with some acclimatization trip and this will give us additional opportunity to explore the land of Tibet and visiting ancient cities of Tibet i.e. Gyantse (3990m), Shigatse (3,860m) and Shegar (4050m) etc. On our return trip to Kathmandu, we drive base camp to Kyerong in a long day drive and stay in a guest house, and next day we cross the China/Nepal border and drive for KTM.
DETAILS ITINERARY
Day 1
Kathmandu Arrival (1300m), Transfer to hotel and Briefing
After you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you will have to go through custom formalities. You will be greeted by our representative who will be anxiously waiting for you with a placard displaying your name in his hand. You will be transferred to the 3-Star category hotel in a private vehicle. Once you get refreshed, you will get briefing regarding the itinerary and you will also be introduced with your crewmembers and other trekkers who are going to join you on the trip. Enjoy welcome dinner in the evening where you can taste authentic Nepali dinner. Stay overnight in a hotel.
Day 2
Kathmandu Sightsee tour, Preparation for expedition
In the morning after breakfast, we will organize half day sightseeing tour during which you will be taken on memorable UNESCO Heritage Tour. Tour begins with visit to Nepal’s holiest Pashupatinath Temple Complex and takes us through Nepal’s largest Bouddhanath Stupa and 2500 years old Swoyambhunath Stupa. We will return to hotel in the afternoon and time for shopping of any missing items, equipment checking and getting ready for the trip.
Day 3
Final Preparation and pack up for expedition
This is the preparation day. Expedition is a long and challenging activity. We need to get well prepared and equip ourselves with all necessary equipment and accessories for successful and enjoyable expedition
Day 4
Fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa (3660m), O/N hotel
You will be picked up from the hotel and transferred to Tribhuvan International Airport. Remember to carry your Tibet Permit and Visit Visa papers. Almost 70 minutes of flight over Everest and other mountains will take you to Lhasa Gonggar Airport. You will take a ride in 4WD vehicle to cover 60km distance along Friendship Highway to Lhasa City. Stay overnight in a hotel in Lhasa.
Day 5
Sightseeing in Lhasa (3,660m)
Lhasa is located on the northern edge of Kyi Chu River. Lhasa is the spiritual centre of Tibet. We will visit Potala Palace, Ramoche Monastery andNorbulingka Palace. Potala Palace is the home of Dalai Lama which was built in 637 AD. Norbulinkha is the summer palace of Dalai Lama which has been identified as the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sera Monastery and Jokhang Monastery are other places of interest in Lhasa.
Day 6
Drive to Shigatse (3,900m) 280 km, O/N at Guesthouse
Leaving Lhasa, we will cross Kamba La (4794m) and Karo La (5010m) Pass. The path is scenic and allows view of beautiful Yamadroke-Tso Lake while nreath-taking views of surrounding mountains can be viewed to the south. We will reach Gynatse. KhumbumStupa and Palkor Monastery are places of interest in Gyantse. We will continue to drive to Shigatse (Xigatse) and reach there in about two hours from Gyantse. We will visit Panchen Lamas’ Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatse.
Day 7-8
Drive to Shegar (4,050m) 244km O/N at Guesthouse / Acclimatization day
Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatselies in the base of Dolmari. This monastery was built in 1477 by GendunDrukpa and the monastery holds the Maitreya Chapel which holds the largest Brass statue of Buddha. We will drive for 4 hours to reach Shegar. Shegar is close to Everest Base Camp. We will stay overnight at Shegar.
Day 9
Drive to Shishapangma Base Camp (4800m)
From Shegar, we drive straight to Shishapangma Base Camp via Tingri and Nyalam. By the time we reach at Base Camp, our camp site will be ready to use as our staff will reach to base camp earlier than us to prepare the camping site.
Day 10-11
Rest at Base Camp, Preparation and Acclimatization
We will prepare ourselves for difficult climb of Shishapangma Mountain. We will practice using climbing gears and scout the way towards Advance Base Camp. We can return to lower altitude for acclimatization. The Guide will share Shishapangma climbing strategy with team. He will also provide you with necessary instructions and teach you what to do and how should you call for help if in case of emergency.
Day 12-13
Trek to Shishapangma Advance Base Camp (5400m), Acclimatization programs
We will trek to Intermediate Base Camp (5,400m) and stay there for 1 night for better acclimatization then we continue to Advance Base Camp (5,600m) the next day. There are three possible routes to climb Shishapangma. One route starts from north face, the other starts from west ridge and the other starts from south face. We will choose the north face route. Yaks or porters will carry the baggage to Advanced Base Camp.
Day 14-33
Acclimatization, load ferries, route opening, Summit attempt of the Mt.Shishapanmga (8,013m) and descent to the base camp
We have about 20 days/nights to climb Mt. Shishapangma including few spare/emergency days.
There will be three high camps before we reach to the summit of Shishapangma.
Advance Base Camp to High Camp 1 (6200m)
We will climb the slope through moraines and boulders and reach High Camp in about 4hours.
High Camp 1 to High Camp2 (6700m)
We will head towards High Camp 2 through glaciated trail. It takes almost 7hours of climbing of snowy slopes to reach Camp2. We need to use fixed ropes at several points to get out of crevasses.
High Camp 2 to High Camp 3 (7400m)
The climb from Camp2 onwards become challenging as we need to climb the steep slope. In about 6hours, we will reach to Camp 3 by climbing the steep section. We will find a clear area below north-west ridge which will be our Camp3.
High Camp 3 to Summit (8013m) and Back to Base Camp
We need to climb the 60 degree elevation which will ultimately take us to the Central Summit. A sharp ridge connects the Central Summit with Main Summit (8013m). The guide will decide if we can attempt Main Summit. It takes almost 12 hours to reach to the summit. We will enjoy the 360degree views of Jugal Mountain Range, Langtang Mountain Range and mountains in Tibet including the neighbouring Cho Oyu Mountain and then descend to Base Camp.
Day 34
Down to Chinese Base Camp (4800m)
We trek down to Chinese Base Camp, and getting ready for drive to KTM the next day morning.
Day 35
Drive to Kyirong
From Base Camp, we drive to Kyirong and stay at the guesthouse.
Day 36
Immigration formalities, and drive for KTM
We complete the immigration formalities and drive for KTM the same day, check in hotel in KTM
Day 37
Free Day in Kathmandu
Spend the day as you like. You can go for shopping in Thamel where you can buy souvenir items. We can also arrange for guided sightseeing tour. Alternatively, you can arrange your photo albums and jot down memories in your journal.
Day 38
International Departure
You will be transferred to the Airport as per your schedule flight for international departure. Safe journey. We hope to see you soon.
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