Introduction to Mt. Everest Expedition North: Tibet
Mt. Everest, rising 8,848m (29,028ft) above sea level reigns as the highest mountain on Earth. For decades summiting Everest has been considered one of the greatest mountaineering achievements. In the spring of each year, we embrace this intense challenge by taking a group of qualified climbers to climb Mt. Everest via the North Col route of Tibet. We will follow the famous climbing route of Mallory establishing 4 high camps along with Advance Base Camp, Intermediate camp and of course a relaxing Base Camp for accommodation during the expedition.
Dream Himalaya Adventures has been running successful Himalayan expeditions to the Himalayas of Nepal & Tibet. We support full board expedition services up the summit and to the advance base camp as well. We are committed to providing you with the best quality services and experience to help you reach your goal. However, all the climbing members must have considerable climbing experience at higher altitudes, preferably in Himalayas.
Our Sherpas are highly qualified, experienced and multiple times Everest summiteers and they have a high reputation with excellent success rates with the safety of the client as number one priority. All members will be assisted by our experienced Sherpas at the ratio of 1:1 and there will be a manager at base camp to assist the team and also act as a liaison between climbers and the Sherpas.
Advance Base Camp (6400 meters)
As soon as the team will be at a Chinese base camp (5200 meters), you can see the camp simply ready to serve you. You can stay at BC for a few days for the preparation and proper acclimatization and then we trek towards Advance base camp along with necessary number of yaks. Our in-charge of the expedition will prepare the required number of yaks. It will take 2 days from the BC to reach ABC spending 1st night at middle camp, where we will have logistic facilities for any emergency purpose while doing up and down. Next morning you will get to ABC (6,400 meters) after spending around 6 hours of walking. Advance base camp is the place where expedition members spend most of the time of the expedition. During a stay at ABC, clients can properly acclimatize themselves and able to make a trip to the higher camps.
Camp-1 (North Col) 7000-meter
Climbing Sherpas will take the necessary food, drinks & tents, etc. to the North Col before clients get there. After spending a couple of nights at North Col, Expedition members will return to ABC or BC for rest & acclimatization.
Camp-2 emergency camp (7500meters)
The Climbing Sherpa will carry the necessary loads to the Camp-2. Now clients should move to 7500/7800from ABC, first night at NC & next night in 7500& back to ABC the following morning. Client should spend a night at 7500 in order to acclimatize properly. Some members can go down to BC as well. The way from camp 2 to Camp 3 is rocky & terrain, but not so difficult. Sometime the gust will be the problem. From camp 2 to 3 is the main windy section.
Camp-3, 7700 meters
After passing the windy & rocky section, you will be at Camp- 3 (7700 meters). Here again, the sherpa takes the loads & sets up the camps before the client reaches there. Here from ABC to NC on the first night, next night at 7700, next morning up to 7900 & direct back to NC/ABC. Sherpa provides you the boiled water/tea/coffee & serves you the individual packed foods (High altitude food) in the high camps. Walking from the camp-3 to 4, the route is mixed up like snow angle, rocky & some difficulty area as well. Here too the speedy wind will hit you. Clients should go up to 7700/7900 and have overnight stay for acclimatization purposes.
Camp-4 (8300 meters)
This is your last camp from where the summit attempt can be made. The team of Sherpas will take all the necessary loads to the camp-4 including the required numbers of oxygen for the summit push.
Summit Attempt
After all the camps are established and all our supplies are in their places, we return to Base Camp for a rest. At Base Camp, we will organize our summit teams and prepare ourselves for summit attempts. Moreover, climbers can go to the lower villages/town such as to Tingri, Nyalam, Zangmu, Sighar on their own expenses for better rest. We start our summit push looking at the best weather summit window.
Summit Plan
- BC to middle camp
- Middle camp to ABC
- Few days rest at ABC
- ABC (6400m) to Camp I, 7000m (North Col)
- Camp I-7000m to CampII between -7500m/7700m
- Camp II-7500m/7700m to Camp III-8300m
- Camp III-8300m to Summit and return to camp, but possibly not to stay at camp-III
- NorthCol
- ABC
- BC
On the way to summit you have to cross the 1st, 2nd& 3rd steps then only you are able to stand at the top of the world (summit of Mt Everest). Between the 1st& 2nd step is tricky & technical part before summit attempt. You should be very careful about your full climbing gear, Oxygen mask regulator set and careful yourself.
Once the climbers ascend the 3rd step, they slowly and laboriously proceed to the summit at 29,028 feet. The summit sits at the top of the world. Though not the closest place to the sun due to the earth's curve, it is the highest peak on earth. Due to the decreased air pressure, the summit contains less than one-third of the oxygen at sea level. If dropped off on the summit directly from sea level (impossible in reality), a person would die within minutes. Typically, climbers achieving the great summit will take pictures, gain their composure, briefly enjoy the view, and then return to Camp lower as quickly as possible. The risk of staying at the summit and the exhaustion from achieving the summit is too great to permit climbers to fully enjoy the great accomplishment at that moment.
The most readers of this page perhaps aware, that the return trip can be even more dangerous than the climb to the summit.
However, simply getting to the summit of Mt Everest doesn't mean that the game is over. You still have a challenge to be faced which is decent down to BC safely. Probably you can decent to camp-2 or North Col on the first night, then ABC, BC. Only at this stage, the mission Mt.Everest is complete. Packing the expedition stuffs then drive back to KTM.
As always, weather plays a major part in all actual summit attempts. We will try a few summit attempts safely as possible, as our goal is to put the maximum number of people on the summit. Guides and Sherpas will accompany all summit attempts and oxygen will be used.
Climbing Routes & High Camps
We will follow the famous climbing route of Mallory, North Ridge, establishing 4 high camps. Our base camp at ~5200m at a big ground above Rongbuk before making our way to Advance Base Camp at 6,400m. We'll climb to Camp-1 at altitude of 7000m, which is also called NorthCol and camp-2 at 7,500m. Camp-3 would be fixed after crossing the windy and rocky section at 7,700m altitudes. Finally, at the last camp-4, we'll head up to 8300m where we will deposit oxygen and tents before the summit attempt.
Journey Outline
After final preparations in Kathmandu, we will drive by private bus from Kathmandu to Kodari (a small border town). Complete necessary immigration formalities and cross the Chinese border and drive to Zangmu by land cruiser. We will drive all the way to Base Camp spending 5 days' time, which includes acclimatization days at Nyalam (3,400m) & Tingri (4300m).
If the trip is planned to fly to Lhasa then, we spent about 3 nights, 2 full days in Lhasa doing some sight seen, tours and acclimatization. From Lhasa, we will take a drive-by land cruiser or by bus for Base Camp, spending about 4/5 days and this will give us additional opportunity to explore the land of Tibet and visiting ancient cities of Tibet i.e. Gyantse (3990m), Shegar (4050m) and Shigatse (3,860m).
TRIP HIGHTLIGHTS
- Expedition will be finished after summiting the Mt Everest
- Expert & experienced cook and crew
- Nice, Friendly & Comfortable logistic arrangements at BC & ABC
- Fully medical back up and emergency communication facilities
- Excellent logistics at base camp with carpeted dinning along with heaters
- 6 days drive to base camp experiencing the unique culture of the Tibetan plateau.
- 1:1 Personal Climbing Sherpa to each climber
- Participation on the longest Himalaya expedition (65 days)
- Climb the world’s highest peak, Mt.Everest with already summitted Sherpa Guides
DETAILS ITINERARY
Day 1
Arrival in Kathmandu, transfer to hotel
After you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you will have to go through custom formalities. You will be greeted by our representative who will be anxiously waiting for you with a placard displaying your name in his hand. You will be transferred to the 3-Star category hotel in a private vehicle. Once you get refreshed, you will get briefing regarding the itinerary and you will also be introduced with your crewmembers and other trekkers who are going to join you on the trip. Enjoy welcome dinner in the evening where you can taste authentic Nepali dinner. Stay overnight in a hotel.
Day 2
Sightseeing, preparation for expedition
In the morning after breakfast, we will organize half day sightseeing tour during which you will be taken on memorable UNESCO Heritage Tour. Tour begins with visit to Nepal’s holiest Pashupatinath Temple Complex and takes us through Nepal’s largest Bouddhanath Stupa and 2500 years old Swoyambhunath Stupa. We will return to hotel in the afternoon and time for shopping of any missing items, equipment checking and getting ready for the trip.
Day 3-4
Preparation for expedition
This is the preparation day. Expedition is a long and challenging activity. We need to get well prepared and equip ourselves with all necessary equipment and accessories for successful and enjoyable expedition. We will manage our time to visit to the senior Buddhist “Lama”and get blessing from him. More over we obtain our Chinese visa during these period.
Day 5
Fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa (3660m), O/N hotel
You will be picked up from the hotel and transferred to Tribhuvan International Airport. Remember to carry your Tibet Permit and Visit Visa papers. Almost 70 minutes of flight over Everest and other mountains will take you to Lhasa Gonggar Airport. You will take a ride in 4WD vehicle to cover 60km distance along Friendship Highway to Lhasa City. Stay overnight in a hotel in Lhasa.
Day 6-7
Sightseeing in Lhasa (3,660m)
Lhasa is located on the northern edge of Kyi Chu River. Lhasa is the spiritual centre of Tibet. We will visit Potala Palace, Ramoche Monastery and Norbulingka Palace. Potala Palace is the home of Dalai Lama which was built in 637 AD. Norbulinkha is the summer palace of Dalai Lama which has been identified as the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sera Monastery and Jokhang Monastery are other places of interest in Lhasa.
Day 8
Drive to Shigatse (3,900m) 280 km, O/N at Guesthouse
Leaving Lhasa, we will cross Kamba La (4794m) and Karo La (5010m) Pass. The path is scenic and allows view of beautiful Yamadroke-Tso Lake while nreath-taking views of surrounding mountains can be viewed to the south. We will reach Gynatse. Khumbum Stupa and Palkor Monastery are places of interest in Gyantse. We will continue to drive to Shigatse (Xigatse) and reach there in about two hours from Gyantse. We will visit Panchen Lamas’ Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatse.
Day 9
Drive to Shegar (4,050m) 244km O/N at Guesthouse
Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatse lies in the base of Dolmari. This monastery was built in 1477 by Gendun Drukpa and the monastery holds the Maitreya Chapel which holds the largest Brass statue of Buddha. We will drive for 4 hours to reach Shegar. Shegar is close to Everest Base Camp. We will stay overnight at Shegar.
Day 10
Rest day at Shegar for acclimatizations
Take a day of rest at Shegar. It will help us in proper acclimatization to the increasing altitude. We can explore Shegar town on this day. Local Monastery and a fort is attraction in Shegar. Stay overnight at Shegar.
Day 11
Drive to Base Camp (4900m)
We drive to Base Camp from Shigar to Mt. Everest Base Camp via Rongbu where we stay several nights for the better acclimatization and preparing to attempt to Intermediate Camp (5800m) and also to Advance Base Camp (6400m). We can get striking views of Everest, Gyachung Kang and other peaks and mountains as we advance towards Rongbuk. Following the Rongbuk Glacier, we will reach Rongbuk Monastery that exists 15 km below Everest Base Camp. From Rongbuk Glacier, we will head towards Base Camp.
Day 12-14
Preparations and acclimatization at Base camp
First couple of days are dedicated for preparation to climb Everest. Guide will share Everest climbing strategy with team. He will also provide you with necessary instructions and teach you what to do and how should you call for help if in case of emergency. For proper acclimatization, we can return to less altitude area. We will pack food and prepare our gear.
Day 15-38
Acclimatization, load ferries and route opening
We will make necessary arrangement for successful climbing of Everest. Sherpas will make way and fix cables wherever necessary and set up High camps. There will be four High Camps before we reach summit. High Camp 1 will be located in North Col at 7000m altitude. Similarly, High Camp 2 will be located at 7500m. High Camp3 will be located at 7700m. High Camp4 will be located at 8300m respectively. Once our rotations will be completed then we trek down to Base Camp for better rest and recovering well.
Day 39-44
Rest & preparations for summit push
We might trek down to the lower villages possibly to Nyalam / Shigatse etc for better rest, to recover well after few rotations to the higher camps, after spending few nights to the lower altitude, and we also make our summit plan during these period and we head to the base camp and focus on summit plan.
Day 45-57
Summit and return to Base Camp
We will try to climb to the summit during these days. Spare days make sure that our trip goes according to plan even if we get delayed by unforeseen circumstances like bad weather and other factors. Once we reach the summit, we will enjoy the breath-taking sceneries from top of the world and take gradual long descend to Base Camp of Everest.
Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp (6400m)
Following the gravel route, we will reach to Advanced Base Camp which offers stunning views of mountains.
Advanced Base Camp to High Camp1/North Col (7000m)
We will walk through the East Rongbuk Glacier with help of crampons. After a full day of rest, we will collect our gears and follow the trail that continues along Rongbuk Glacier. After some time, the trail escalates up through the eastern edge of the glacier and reach Camp1. Camp1 will be located below a large yellow rock. We can get spectacular view of Pumori Mountain from Camp1.
High Camp1 to High Camp 2 (7500m)
The route gets steep. We will walk through the snowy ridge through the area where we may experience the challenge of high wind. We may need to use supplemental oxygen from here.
High Camp2 to High Camp3 (7700m)
High Camp 3 will be on the ridge at steep, rocky and exposed area. Tents will be placed on rock ledges. Heavy wind is common in Camp3 area.
High Camp 3 to High Camp 4 (8300m)
We will climb with help of fixed rope through snow filled gully which is the part of the Yellow Band. Slowly, we will reach the northeast ridge.
8300m to Summit (8848m)
We will climb the steep snow slope through an exposed, windy and cold area and make difficult climb along the ridge to the summit. Slopes angles range from 30 to 60 degrees.
Day 58
Drive to Shigatse
Leaving Base Camp, we drive to straight to Shigatse about 350km, and stay at guesthouses for the night.
Day 59
Drive to Lhasa
From Shigatse, we drive to Lhasa about 350km and stay at hotel for the over night and get ready for the next day flight to Kathmandu.
Day 60
Fly to Kathmandu
We fly to Kathmandu and our representative from KTM airport and transfer to hotel will pick you up. Free afternoon and evening.
Day 61
Free Day in Kathmandu
This is a leisure day. Spend the day as you like. You can go for shopping in Thamel where you can buy souvenir items. We can also arrange for guided sightseeing tour. Alternatively, you can arrange your photo albums and jot down memories in your journal.
Day 62
Final departure to home
You will be transferred to the Airport as per your schedule flight for international departure. Safe journey. We hope to see you soon.
Fitness requirement for Mt.Everest Expedition North
Climbing at and above 8,000 meters is inherently dangerous and is not the place to be learning mountaineering and climbing skills. Any expedition that goes to 8,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 50km on flat ground in approximately 6 hours. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability.
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 8 to 12 months to prepare yourself as a strong candidate. You can go to the fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for a couple of hours up to 3 or 4 times a week. On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 12 – 16 hours.
Need for Previous Experience Experience
Dream Himalaya Adventures strongly suggest that you must climb a number of 6,000m peaks in order to gain mountaineering proficiency and also undertake a trip to one of the 7,000m peak or one of the technically difficult 6000m peaks i.e. Mt. Amadablam, or similar, where you experience expedition camping, higher altitude, and dealing with the cold. Now to get more familiar with 8,000m altitude and extreme cold temperature, we highly recommend our clients to climb one of our expedition to 8000m mountains, i.e. Mt. Cho Oyu (8201m), Mt. Manaslu (8,163m) or any other over 8,000m mountain, where working with Sherpas, the use of fixed ropes and oxygen equipment are pretty much associated with. With this experience on your side, you will be ready to attempt the Mt. Everest. If you do so, our experience shows that those who have done the expedition with us have significantly increased the success rates. If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
You must have well knowledge about the usage of mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will increase the chances of reaching the summit and also the previous mountaineering experiences is mandatory but doesn’t really require any high level of technical experience.
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