Mt. Everest North (8,848.86m) Expedition – 50 Days

Dream Himalaya Adventures has been running successful Himalayan expeditions to the Himalayas of Nepal & Tibet. We support full board expedition services up the summit and to the advance base camp as well. We are committed to providing you with the best quality services and experience to help you reach your goal. However, all the climbing members must have considerable climbing experience at higher altitudes, preferably in Himalayas.

Our Sherpas are highly qualified, experienced and multiple times Everest summiteers and they have a high reputation with excellent success rates with the safety of the client as number one priority. All members will be assisted by our experienced Sherpas at the ratio of 1:1 and there will be a manager at base camp to assist the team and also act as a liaison between climbers and the Sherpas.

Advance Base Camp (6,400 meters)

As soon as the team will be at a Chinese base camp (5,200 meters), you can see the camp simply ready to serve you. You can stay at BC for a few days for the preparation and proper acclimatization and then we trek towards Advance base camp along with necessary number of yaks. Our in-charge of the expedition will prepare the required number of yaks. It will take 2 days from the BC to reach ABC spending 1st night at middle camp, where we will have logistic facilities for any emergency purpose while doing up and down. Next morning you will get to ABC (6,400 meters) after spending around 6 hours of walking. Advance base camp is the place where expedition members spend most of the time of the expedition. During a stay at ABC, clients can properly acclimatize themselves and able to make a trip to the higher camps.

Camp-1 (North Col) 7,010-meter

Climbing Sherpas will take the necessary food, drinks & tents, etc. to the North Col before clients get there. After spending a couple of nights at North Col, Expedition members will return to ABC or BC for rest & acclimatization.

Camp-2 emergency camp (7,500 meters)

The Climbing Sherpa will carry the necessary loads to the Camp-2. Now clients should move to 7500/7800from ABC, first night at NC & next night in 7500& back to ABC the following morning. Client should spend a night at 7500 in order to acclimatize properly. Some members can go down to BC as well. The way from camp 2 to Camp 3 is rocky & terrain, but not so difficult. Sometime the gust will be the problem. From camp 2 to 3 is the main windy section.

Camp-3 ( 7,700 meters)

After passing the windy & rocky section, you will be at Camp- 3 (7700 meters). Here again, the sherpa takes the loads & sets up the camps before the client reaches there. Here from ABC to NC on the first night, next night at 7700, next morning up to 7900 & direct back to NC/ABC. Sherpa provides you the boiled water/tea/coffee & serves you the individual packed foods (High altitude food) in the high camps. Walking from the camp-3 to 4, the route is mixed up like snow angle, rocky & some difficulty area as well. Here too the speedy wind will hit you. Clients should go up to 7700/7900 and have overnight stay for acclimatization purposes.

Camp-4 (8,300 meters)

This is your last camp from where the summit attempt can be made. The team of Sherpas will take all the necessary loads to the camp-4 including the required numbers of oxygen for the summit push.

Summit Attempt

After all the camps are established and all our supplies are in their places, we return to Base Camp for a rest. At Base Camp, we will organize our summit teams and prepare ourselves for summit attempts. Moreover, climbers can go to the lower villages/town such as to Tingri, Sighar on their own expenses for better rest. We start our summit push looking at the best weather summit window.

Summit Plan

• Base Camp (5,200m)  to Middle Camp (5,800m)
• Middle camp to ABC
• Few days rest at ABC
• ABC (6,400m) to Camp I / North Col (7,010m)
• Camp I (7,010m)  to  Camp II between (7,500m / 7,700m)
• Camp II (7,500m/7,700m)  to  Camp III (8,300m)
• Camp III- (8,300m) to Summit and return Camp II, but possibly not to stay at camp-III
• NorthCol
• ABC
• BC

On the way to summit you have to cross the 1st, 2nd& 3rd steps then only you are able to stand at the top of the world (summit of Mt Everest). Between the 1st & 2nd step is tricky & technical part before summit attempt. You should be very careful about your full climbing gear, Oxygen mask regulator set and careful yourself.

Once the climbers ascend the 3rd step, they slowly and laboriously proceed to the summit at 29,028 feet.  The summit sits at the top of the world.  Though not the closest place to the sun due to the earth’s curve, it is the highest peak on earth.  Due to the decreased air pressure, the summit contains less than one-third of the oxygen at sea level.  If dropped off on the summit directly from sea level (impossible in reality), a person would die within minutes.  Typically, climbers achieving the great summit will take pictures, gain their composure, briefly enjoy the view, and then return to Camp lower as quickly as possible.   The risk of staying at the summit and the exhaustion from achieving the summit is too great to permit climbers to fully enjoy the great accomplishment at that moment.

The most readers of this page perhaps aware, that the return trip can be even more dangerous than the climb to the summit.

However, simply getting to the summit of Mt Everest doesn’t mean that the game is over. You still have a challenge to be faced which is decent down to BC safely. Probably you can decent to camp-2 or North Col on the first night, then ABC, BC. Only at this stage, the mission Mt.Everest is complete. Packing the expedition stuffs then drive back to KTM.

As always, weather plays a major part in all actual summit attempts. We will try a few summit attempts safely as possible, as our goal is to put the maximum number of people on the summit. Guides and Sherpas will accompany all summit attempts and oxygen will be used.

Climbing Routes & High Camps

We will follow the famous climbing route of Mallory, North Ridge, establishing 4 high camps. Our base camp at ~5150m at a big ground above Rongbuk before making our way to Advance Base Camp at 6,400m. We’ll climb to Camp-1 at altitude of 7010m, which is also called North Col and camp-2 at 7,500m. Camp-3 would be fixed after crossing the windy and rocky section at 7,700m altitudes. Finally, at the last camp-4, we’ll head up to 8300m where we will deposit oxygen and tents before the summit attempt.

Journey Outline

After final preparations and all the necessary Visa formalities in Kathmandu, we will fly to Lhasa (3,660m), the capital city of Tibet, complete necessary immigration formalities and transfer to Hotel in Lhasa, we will stay 2-3 nights in Lhasa for better acclimatization as well as doing sight seeing tours to Potala Palace and other Tibet’s old monasteries. We will drive all the way to Base Camp spending 3 days’ time, which includes acclimatization days at Shegar (4,050m)or Tingri (4,350m).

Fitness requirement for Mt.Everest Expedition North

Climbing at and above 8,000 meters is inherently dangerous and is not the place to be learning mountaineering and climbing skills. Any expedition that goes to 8,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 50km on flat ground in approximately 6 hours. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability.
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 8 to 12 months to prepare yourself as a strong candidate. You can go to the fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for a couple of hours up to 3 or 4 times a week. On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 12 – 16 hours.

Required Previous Experiences

Dream Himalaya Adventures strongly suggest that you must climb a number of 6,000m peaks in order to gain mountaineering proficiency and also undertake a trip to one of the 7,000m peak or one of the technically difficult 6000m peaks i.e. Mt. Amadablam, or similar, where you experience expedition camping, higher altitude, and dealing with the cold. Now to get more familiar with 8,000m altitude and extreme cold temperature, we highly recommend our clients  to climb one of our expedition to 8000m mountains, i.e. Mt. Cho Oyu (8201m), Mt. Manaslu (8,163m) or any other over 8,000m mountain, where working with Sherpas, the use of fixed ropes and oxygen equipment are pretty much associated with. With this experience on your side, you will be ready to attempt the Mt. Everest. If you do so, our experience shows that those who have done the expedition with us have significantly increased the success rates. If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.