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DHA/M/MX-38
Nepal
38 days Days
8000m climbing expedition
"Strenuous" signifies the need for exceptional fitness, endurance, and mental toughness to handle long days, extreme altitude, and arduous conditions.
"4E" indicates that participants must be highly experienced, mastering advanced mountaineering techniques in snow, ice, and rock environments, and generally having prior success on other high-altitude peaks.
8,163m
9 days
September to 1st week October
23 days
Standard route via Base Camp to Camp I, II, III, IV to the Summit
Normal (North East) Climbing Route
Kathmandu / Kathmandu
3 - 12
Teahouse + Camping basis
5-7 hours of walk on trekking, 10-15 hours on peak summit day
Climbers with prior climbing experience
Kathmandu
Highest Altitude
1,400m
Meals
Welcome Dinner
Accommodation
4-Star Hotel Single room BB basis
Our journey to Manaslu begins in Kathmandu, so you will have to arrive in Kathmandu. Upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, our representative will pick you up and drive you to the hotel, where you will stay overnight. The drive will only take 20-30 minutes. Then, you will check into the 4-star category hotel and get refreshed from jet lag.
After some rest, we will convene to discuss the Mount Manaslu Expedition itinerary and other essential tips for successful climbing. You will also meet crew members and other climbers who will be joining you on this climbing expedition. In the evening, enjoy a welcome dinner with everyone in the hotel hall.
Meals
Breakfast
Accommodation
4-star hotel accommodation
Day 2 is the preparation day: equipment checks and preparations for the expedition. Because an expedition is both long and challenging, we ensure you have the right trekking and climbing equipment, proper fittings, and all the essentials you’ll need for a safe and successful journey. After checking your gear and doing the final packing, we will take you on a half-day UNESCO Heritage sightseeing tour in Kathmandu.
We’ll first visit Pashupatinath Temple, one of Nepal’s holiest Hindu sites. Here, you’ll get to explore the temple complex, see the sacred Bagmati River, and observe the spiritual traditions that take place around the temple, including open-air cremation. Afterward, we’ll head to Swayambhunath Stupa (Monkey Temple), a peaceful hilltop shrine known for its prayer flags, expansive views of Kathmandu Valley, and resident monkeys.
After exploration, we will return to the hotel in the afternoon. You can shop for any missing gear or personal items before the adventure officially begins. Many shops in Thamel sell trek and expedition gear and equipment. Overnight in Kathmandu.
Besisahar
Trek Duration
7 hours
Drive Distance
175km
Elevation loss/gain
↓640m
Drive Duration
7 hours
Highest Altitude
760m
Meals
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Accommodation
Guesthouse / Hotel
After an early breakfast in Kathmandu, we will begin our long drive toward Besisahar. The journey takes about 7 hours and follows the Prithvi Highway. The drive passes through several major landmarks such as Swayambhu, Kalanki, Thankot, Naubise, Mugling, Dumre, Paundi, Turture, and Bhoteodar before finally reaching Besisahar.
As we travel, you can enjoy beautiful views of terraced fields, green hills, and flowing rivers. The good weather, the greenery, and clear skies make the journey even more enjoyable. We will stop somewhere along the way for lunch. Most of the road from Kathmandu to Besisahar is in good condition. That being said, about 25% can be off-road with winding sections.
We may also encounter traffic delays around Naubise and Mugling, especially during festival seasons such as Dashain, Tihar, and Chhath. Further, during the monsoon (June-August), some parts of the road may be prone to landslides, but outside the rainy season, the drive is usually smooth. After we reach Besisahar, we will check into a guesthouse, have dinner, and rest overnight.
Goa
Trek Duration
4 hours
Trek Distance
11km
Drive Distance
60km
Elevation loss/gain
↑1,755m
Drive Duration
5 hours
Highest Altitude
2,515m
Meals
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Accommodation
Teahouse
In the morning, we will leave Besisahar and take a local jeep to Dharapani. The road from Besisahar to Dharapani is rough and bumpy. The drive takes about 4 hours and passes through villages like Nagdi, Bhulbhule, Sange, and Chame. We will reach Dharapani around lunchtime. From Dharapani, we will officially begin our trek towards the Manaslu region. After lunch in Dharapani, we will start our trek to Goa (also called Gho).
Before leaving Dharapani, we will register our Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) permit and Manaslu Conservation Area Project (MCAP) permit at the checkpost. Then we cross a bridge and begin trekking along the wide Manaslu Circuit Trail toward Goa. We will walk along the forest areas, small villages, and peaceful natural surroundings away from the city’s noise and pollution.
Along the way, we will also see beautiful views of Peak 29 (Ngadi Chuli), Himal Chuli, Lamjung Himal, and other mountain peaks. This means the start of the trek will already start to surprise you, and many more surprises are awaiting. After a pleasant hike, we will finally reach Goa, where we will stay overnight in a cozy teahouse.
Binthang
Trek Duration
6 hours
Trek Distance
9km
Elevation loss/gain
↑1,115m
Highest Altitude
3,630m
Meals
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Accommodation
Teahouse
After an early-morning breakfast in Goa, we will continue our trek in the Manaslu region, heading to Bimthang. Bimthang is the base of the Larkya Pass. The trail from Goa to Bimthang takes us through subtropical forests and small rural villages where locals farm and raise livestock. Along the way, we may see herds of sheep, cows, and yaks grazing on the hillside. The first major village we reach is Toemro, where we can get a clear view of Mount Manaslu.
From there, we will continue walking alongside the flowing river. Then we will reach Karche and Yak Kharka. As we near Bimthang, the trail steepens and becomes more strenuous, so it can be tough on your legs. Once we arrive at Bimthang, we will rest at the teahouse and have dinner. Make sure to sleep early.
Bimthang
Trek Duration
4 hours
Highest Altitude
3,630m
Meals
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Accommodation
Teahouse
Day 5 is our first acclimatization day on the Manaslu climbing itinerary. Acclimatization helps our bodies adjust to higher altitudes. After breakfast, we will carry only personal gear and water and explore the trails around Bimthang. We will hike from Bimthang toward Larkya Pass (5,106 meters) as far as we can, then return to Bimthang for our second night at the teahouse. This hike is essential to reduce the risk of altitude sickness before tomorrow’s long trek over Larkya Pass.
We will also explore the nearby areas of Bimthang. Bimthang is known for its stunning natural beauty and is surrounded by snow-capped peaks. Locals often call this place “Bowl of Silver” because of the white mountains that encircle it. After exploring, we will return to the teahouse where we are staying and relax.
Samdo
Trek Duration
9-10 hours
Trek Distance
24km
Elevation loss/gain
↑1476m, ↓1,231m
Highest Altitude
5,106m
Meals
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Accommodation
Teahouse
Today is going to be a tough day and involves long walking hours. We will cross the Larkya La Pass (5,106 meters), one of the high-altitude mountain passes. From Bimthang, we will start very early to avoid strong winds. The ascent to Larkya La is long and demanding. We will traverse the valley floor and gradually climb toward the pass’s base. The final section is a steep, slow climb up the ridge and snow slopes that leads to the prayer-flag-adorned summit.
From the top of the Larkya La, we will have spectacular views of Himlung Himal, Kang Guru, and Annapurna II. Later on, we will descend to Samdo. The path passes through a moraine wall and over rough, rocky terrain for a few hours. Then, it follows the Salka Khola valley, which feeds into the Budhi Gandaki River. It will be an easy downhill walk across open meadows and yak pastures.
Before we reach Samdo, we will pass Larkya Bazaar, the old trading hub. After 9/10 hours of walking, we will eventually reach Samdo, where we will rest overnight. Samdo is a historically important Tibetan refugee village where one can enjoy views of Manaslu and Samdo Peak.
Samagaun
Trek Duration
3 hours
Trek Distance
7.8km
Elevation loss/gain
↓355m
Highest Altitude
3,520m
Meals
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Accommodation
Teahouse
Following the Mount Manaslu Expedition itinerary, on day 8, after an early morning tea, we will trek towards Samagaun. It is the last day of the trek before reaching Manaslu Base Camp (4,800 meters). Today’s walk is easy and descends slightly from Samdo. Samagaun is a traditional village with ancient monasteries, Mani walls, and chortens. These chortens are believed to protect the village from evil spirits.
From Samagaun, we get a close-up view of the majestic Manaslu, the eighth-highest peak in the world. The villagers here grow crops like buckwheat and potatoes as staple foods. When we arrive at Samagaun, we will visit Sama Gompa Monastery, where we can learn about the spiritual practices and traditions of the area. After exploring the village and monastery, we will settle in at a teahouse in Samagaun for an overnight stay.
Manaslu Base Camp
Trek Duration
5 hours
Trek Distance
7km
Elevation loss/gain
↑1,280m
Highest Altitude
4800m
Meals
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Accommodation
Camping
On day 9, we will reach Manaslu Base Camp, which is the midpoint of the Manaslu expedition. We will gain significant altitude this day. The path opens up to wide, exposed slopes as you walk higher from Samagaun. The trail climbs above the forested slopes of Samagaon and moves toward the northern side of the Manaslu Glacier. It becomes steeper towards the end and passes along the Manaslu Glacier.
Once at the Base Camp, we will settle into camp for the night. Here, you can relax, enjoy the scenery, and soak in the unique atmosphere of being at the base of the world’s eighth-highest mountain. Overnight stay is at Manaslu Base Camp.
Manaslu Base Camp
Meals
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Accommodation
Camping
Over the next few days, we will stay at Manaslu Base Camp to rest, acclimatize, and prepare for the higher sections of the expedition. We take short walks around the area to help our bodies adjust to the high altitude.
These days give you a chance to enjoy the stunning mountain views, observe the glacier up close, and get ready for the next stage of the expedition. Even while staying at Base Camp, the scenery and high-altitude environment make this a truly memorable part of the journey.
Highest Altitude
8,163m
Meals
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Accommodation
Camping
Days from 13 to 31 are allocated for the Manaslu climbing attempt, which includes acclimatization rotations, load carrying, route fixing, summit attempt, and descent. During this period, we focus on moving safely between camps to adapt to high altitude and changing mountain conditions. The trail continues through hanging glaciers and icefalls. We will dedicate the first few days to the rotation of camps. Rotation of camps is necessary to properly acclimatize us to high altitude. We will set up four high camps before we reach the summit.
Base Camp (4,800m) to Camp I (5,700m)
After proper acclimatization, we begin our first rotation toward Camp I. The trail is slippery as we need to walk through the Larkya glacier. We may need to fix ropes at a few points to cross crevasses. Camp I is located in a sheltered area protected from the wind. It takes about 4-5 hours to climb through the quite broken glacier to Camp I. From here, climbers can clearly see the route ahead toward the upper camps.
Camp I (5,700m) to Camp II (6,400m)
After proper acclimatization, we begin our first rotation toward Camp I. The trail is slippery as we need to walk through the Larkya glacier. We may need to fix ropes at a few points to cross crevasses. Camp I is located in a sheltered area protected from the wind. It takes about 4-5 hours to climb through the quite broken glacier to Camp I. From here, climbers can clearly see the route ahead toward the upper camps.
Camp II (6,400m) to Camp III (6,800m)
This is a shorter but physically challenging section due to altitude. The climb from Camp II to Camp III usually takes 2–3 hours, gaining about 400 meters in elevation. The route follows snow shelves and moderately steep slopes before reaching Camp III, which is set on a broad snow col.
Camp III (6,800m) to Camp IV (7,400m)
From Camp III, the route climbs directly up the steep northeast face, passing through short ice sections before reaching a long upper snow slope. This section takes 5–7 hours and is physically demanding. Camp IV is established at around 7,400m and serves as the summit camp. Due to extreme altitude and exposure, climbers spend minimal time here before attempting the summit.
Camp IV (7,400m) to Summit (8,163m)
Summit day begins very early. The route follows rolling snow slopes with several steep sections, often involving deep snow. After 5–6 hours, climbers reach a resting point just below the true summit, where oxygen systems and ropes are checked. From here, fixed ropes are used to climb the final narrow and corniced ridge. Reaching the summit of Mount Manaslu (8,163m) is the ultimate reward.
Return to Base Camp (4,800m)
After a successful summit, climbers descend carefully back to Camp IV, usually within 1–2 hours. If conditions allow, the descent continues to Camp II on the same day. The following day, we returned to Base Camp. An additional 1–2 days are required to clear the mountain and remove all high camps. Once Base Camp is fully dismantled, preparations begin for the trek back.
Samagaun
Trek Duration
5 hours
Trek Distance
7km
Elevation loss/gain
↓1,280m
Highest Altitude
3,520m
Meals
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Accommodation
Teahouse
Today, we will leave Manaslu Base Camp and follow the same trail back down to Samagaun that we took earlier. The walk is much easier than the climb up, and the path offers beautiful views of the glacier, valley, and surrounding mountains. As we descend, the air becomes thicker and makes the walk comfortable.
After a 5-hour hike, we will return to Samagaun. This familiar village feels welcoming after many days in the high mountains. We will settle into a teahouse, enjoy a warm meal, and rest for the night.
Kathmandu
Elevation loss/gain
↓2,120m
Highest Altitude
1,400m
Meals
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Accommodation
4-star hotel in Kathmandu
Attractions of the Day: Back to Kathmandu, Thamel streets
We will take about 4 days to return to Kathmandu from Samagaun. Most of the return is downhill, so the trek feels comfortable. We will retrace the familiar trail through forests, villages, and river valleys until we reach the road-access point that is Dharapani or Besisahar.
Then, from either Dharapani or Besisahar, we will take a long drive back to Kathmandu. If we return through the other route, we may drive out via Aarughat instead. For those who have arranged a helicopter, there is also the option to fly directly from Samagaun to Kathmandu, which takes only a short time. After reaching Kathmandu, we check into a 4-star hotel and get some rest after completing the long expedition.
Kathmandu
Meals
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Accommodation
4-star hotel
This is a flexible buffer day in Kathmandu. Spend the day as you like. You can relax at your hotel. You can go shopping in Thamel, where you can buy souvenirs and handicrafts. If you are interested, we can also arrange a guided sightseeing tour of UNESCO World Heritage sites. In the evening, enjoy a farewell dinner with the expedition team to celebrate the successful completion of the expedition. Share the experience you get to feel throughout the expedition as well. Overnight at the hotel.
Meals
Breakfast
Depending on your flight time, we will transfer you to the airport. Our team will assist with your departure and wish you a safe journey home. We hope to welcome you back to Nepal again.
Cost Includes / Excludes
38 days Days
30 Aug, 2026
6 Oct, 2026
USD 14,300
Since climbing Mount Manaslu is very dangerous and has a high fatality rate compared to other mountains of similar height, it is called the “Killer Mountain”. As of December 2024, 3,317 climbers have successfully reached the summit, and about 90 climbers have died on Manaslu. This data shows the mountain has a roughly 2.6% fatality rate.
Manaslu gained the nickname “Killer Mountain” in 1972, after a tragic accident in which an avalanche struck a Korean Expedition group’s camp at 6,500 meters. In this disaster, 15 people, including 10 Nepalese guides, 4 South Korean climbers (one of them was the team leader Kim Ho-sup), and 1 Japanese climber (Kazunari Yasuhisa), lost their lives. It was one of the worst climbing disasters in Himalayan history at the time. But unfortunately, this was not the only sad incident.
Over the years, further accidents have reinforced this warning. On 23 September 2011, another avalanche struck above Camp III at 7,400 meters and took the lives of 11 climbers, and many were injured. Likewise, in autumn 2022, Manaslu faced two deadly avalanches within one week. On 26 September 2022, an avalanche between Camp 3 and Camp 4 killed one person and injured 12 climbers. The victim was the Nepali guide, Anup Rai, who was carrying loads. On 1 October 2022, another avalanche on the lower slopes killed Dawa Chhiring Sherpa, a Nepali guide. These events show that even with modern equipment and good planning, there is still a big risk.
The major reasons that make this mountain a severe test for climbers are avalanches, falls, sickness caused by the high altitude, like HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema) or HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema), unpredictable weather, and technical climbing sections. To climb Manaslu safely, climbers need climbing experience, good preparation, and strong physical and mental fitness. Although safety has improved over the years, Manaslu remains considered one of the most dangerous 8,000-meter mountains in the world, even though it is sometimes described as “safe”.
Japanese climbers hold a special place in the history of Mount Manaslu. They were the first to explore the mountain repeatedly and were also the first to reach the summit in 1956. In the early 1950s (1952-1956), Japanese reconnaissance expedition teams spent years studying every part of Manaslu. They learned the safe places for future camps, where avalanches fell, which ridges were safer, and which paths were easier.
The first thing they did was to climb the mountain by the Northeast Face. They reached a height of 7,750 meters but had to return due to adverse weather and delays. Subsequently, the local people of Samagaun prevented them from climbing the mountain. But the Japanese climbers did not give up. Each time they came back, they had a better plan. Finally, in 1956, Toshio Imanishi and Sherpa Gyalzen Norbu reached the summit of Manaslu. The very first ascent of Manaslu made the mountain known to the world and also established the route, which is still used by most expeditions.
In addition, this successful climb fostered a warm relationship with the people of Samagaun, thereby facilitating the region’s opening to future climbers and trekkers. Similarly, in 1971, another Japanese team climbed Mount Manaslu, this time taking a different route along the Northwest Spur. It was a more challenging route, but it proved that Manaslu had more than one possible route.
Nevertheless, the Northeast Face and Northeast Ridge (the original 1956 route) remain the most popular and safest options for climbers today. Climbers start in the Budhi Gandaki Valley, take a rest and get used to the altitude in Samagaun, and then go from Base Camp to Camp I, Camp II, and Camp III. These camps are located in nearly the same places as the camps where the Japanese teams had set up their camps. The Japanese route involves moderate snow slopes, glacier travel, icefall crossings with fixed ropes, and steeper ridges over 7,000 meters.
Manaslu is a notoriously risky and challenging mountain to scale, even for experienced climbers. Most expedition teams follow the Northeast Face route, which the Japanese first explored. There are several tricky sections between the high camps and the summit that need special care.
The section of the Manaslu climb from Camp I to Camp II is considered one of the most difficult and dangerous sections of the entire route. This is because it crosses the Manaslu Glacier, which is constantly moving and features deep cracks (crevasses) and large, unstable ice blocks called seracs. Crevasses are dangerous when they are hidden under a thin layer of fresh snow. A climber may step on it, thinking it’s solid, but it might collapse, dropping them into the icy depths below. Seracs are large towers or blocks of ice that can fall at any time, and this part of the route is quite famous for that risk. To stay safe, Sherpa teams, sometimes called “icefall doctors, “put up fixed ropes and aluminum ladders to cross the wide gaps. Climbers usually move early in the morning when the ice is firm. Guides are always there to find the safest path, which can change from year to year.
The next difficult part is the steep ice and snow slopes between Camp II and Camp III. Some slopes can be extremely steep, between 45° and 60°, and avalanches can happen after fresh snow. Climbers use ice axes, crampons, and fixed ropes anchored with ice screws to climb safely. They also do rotation climbs to these camps to acclimate to the altitude and the demanding effort. Camps are carefully placed to avoid avalanches and falling ice.
The final section from Camp IV to the summit is the most dangerous. There is a “False Summit” that appears to be the top but isn’t, and the true summit lies beyond a narrow, overhanging snow ridge called a cornice. Stepping on a cornice can be fatal. This section is in the Death Zone, where there is very little oxygen and strong winds. Most climbers use supplemental oxygen to help them breathe. Luckily, there are now fixed ropes that extend all the way to the summit, and climbers are always clipped in. It is of utmost importance to walk carefully and slowly on the safe side of the ridge while remaining alert, because fatigue and thin air can make mistakes very dangerous.
The “False Summit Trap” on Manaslu is a tricky section near the summit that has confused many climbers for years. For a long time, a large number of climbers have mistakenly thought they had reached the summit, whereas in fact they have only reached a point called the fore summit, which is located at 8,090 meters. The absolute top of Manaslu is a sharp, narrow ridge beyond this spot. The distance between the fore-summit and the real summit is only 30-70 meters. However, the area is steep, snow-covered, and somewhat tricky.
The fore summit looks very close to the true summit and has prayer flags. So, it’s likely that climbers may believe that they have reached the summit. Further, climbers in the “Death Zone” are exhausted; in some cases, they use oxygen, and, likely, the final ridge cannot be seen clearly. Also, before 2022, ropes ended at the fore-summit, and thus, it is quite understandable how the mistake was made.
Later in 2021, the drone footage made the doubt clear. A team led by Mingma Gyalje Sherpa pinpointed the true summit using a drone video recorded by Jackson Groves. After this proof, the Himalayan Database, the official record of mountaineering in the Himalayas, decided that from the 2022 season, only those who reach the actual highest point (8,163 meters) are officially counted as having climbed Manaslu. This is the reason why climbers have to be highly cautious and courageous at the very last part of the mountain if they are to reach the top for real.
Climbing at and above 8,000 meters is inherently dangerous and is not the place to be learning mountaineering and climbing skills. Any expedition that goes to 8,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 50km on flat ground in approximately6 hours. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability.
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 8 to 12 months to prepare yourself as a strong candidate. You can go to the fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for a couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week. On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 10 – 14 hours. On our all-8000m expeditions, we supply excellent logistics; good ratios of climbing support sherpas and a standard quantity of oxygen, which plays a vital role in the success and safe climb of the peak.
Dream Himalaya Adventures strongly suggest that you must climb a number of 6,000m peaks in order to gain mountaineering proficiency and also undertake a trip to one of the 7,000m peak or one of the technically tricky 6000m peak i.e. Mt. Amadablam or similar, where you experience expedition camping, higher altitude, and how to deal with the cold. If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
You must have well knowledge about using mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will increase the chances of reaching the summit and also previous mountaineering experiences are mandatory but don’t really require any high level of technical experience.
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