Kyajo RI Expedition (6,186m) - 26 days

Introduction to Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing

The Kyajo Ri (6,186m) peak was officially opened for climbing by the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism in 2002 and the first ascent was made the same year by a British & French team. Kyajo Ri peak is a stunning and very beautiful looking mountain in Gokyo valley area. This magnificent peak situated in the middle of the Khumbu region surrounded by impressive summits and fantastic views, including lots of 8,000ers. The Kyajo Kharka, the best of the peak is very beautiful, comfortable, quiet and located in a wonderful isolated valley.
 
This Kyajo ri is classified as a group A "Trekking Peak" by Nepal Mountaineering Association which permits a less expensive and less complicated to obtain it. It is technical without being extreme. The route is free of fixed rope and anchors, retaining its pristine, wild condition. Experience to join the expedition. It is a steeper, more sustained and committing climb than Island Peak or Lobuje East, for example. It lacks unacceptable levels of objective hazard. The route faces south, towards the sun and warmth.

Climbing Route & High Camps

Kyajo Ri, the standard ascent via South West Ridge is from base camp at around 4,600 meters to Camp 1 at over 5,300 meters involves a 2-hour hike over a grassy spur and boulders. Camp 1 to Camp 2 involves some technical climbing at French Alpine (AD+) over mixed face slopes up to 55? And the negotiation of a glacier. Camp 2 to the summit at 6,186 meters has been rated at French Alpine Grade D by the previous expedition. It involves a 15 hour return journey over a glacial ridge, with some mixed rock and ice pitches up to 60?.
 
Kyajo Ri is shorter and technically easier than Ama Dablam, but requiring multiple camps above base camp, rather than being a quick hit from a high camp. If you are looking for a more challenging and 'complete' Himalayan experience than might be gained on some of the popular 'trekking' peaks, this could be it. We classified this peak as an expedition peak therefore aim to climb in 'Expedition Style' utilizing fixed ropes, few high camps and Sherpa guided.

Journey Outline

This classic trek into the Solu-Khumbu region begins with a spectacular mountain flight to Lukla & continually trekking along the Dudh-Kosi ("Milk River"). After crossing the Namche Bazar “Sherpa head quater” We will gradually make our ascent to Machhermo (4,470m) and Gokyo Lake (4,790m) and climbing the Gokyo Peak (5,360m). After successfully climbing Gokyo Peak, we cross through the Ranjo La Pass (5,360m), which is one of the breathtaking panoramic viewpoints for the world's highest mountains. And we will start to descend and trek to Thame, from where the world-class climbers come from. And to the hidden valley of Kyajo Kharka accessed via the village of Mende. Two camps are used above Base Camp: Camp 1 at 5,300m and a high camp on a col at 5,700m. From here, the route to the summit is obvious and follows slopes up to 50 - 55 degrees. After ascending the peak, we try to descent to Camp 1 for over-night stay and next day to base camp then way out from base camp.

TRIP HIGHTLIGHTS

• If any-one is looking physically and technically challenging 6000m peak, it’s 100% for you
• A perfect mountain to climb instead of Amadablam, to avoid crowds, within less time and lower cost
• Develop altitude experience and build a foundation for big mountains, and ultimate goal to summit Kyajo RI
• Climbing on Gokyo-RI (5,360m)
• Acclimatization trek via Snow Lake ”Gokyo Lake” and over Ranjo Pass (5,360m)

Fitness Requirements

Our 6,000m expedition peaks are physically and technically harder and challenging climbing trip. Your tough level of fitness is really important for this trip; therefore we strongly suggest preparing yourself for good physical fitness level. You do not need to be an athlete, but a good level of overall fitness is important. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. As an indication, you should be able to walk 8 km / 5 miles with a maximum height gain of 800m/2,000ft with a 10kg rucksack in 5 hours or less.
 
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 5 to 7 months to prepare yourself as a strong candidate. You can go to the fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 7kg, 10kg, 13 kg, 16kg and up to 20kg), manage some time for cycling for a couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week. However, during climbing, there might be little symptoms of altitude illness like mild headache, fatigue, etc. but take it as normal and just drink a lot of water (4 – 5 liters) every day. On this trek, you need to be able to hike 6 – 10 hours over hilly terrain up to 6,000m of altitude with a daypack.  On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 10 – 12 hours. We will have porters to carry our heavy camping equipment, food and also the climbing gear.

Value of Previous Experience 

All of our 6000m expedition trips are accessible to experienced trekkers and those who have done some climbing trips in European mountains in order to take another challenge on the Himalayas Mountains. This trip will be helpful if you want to gain some knowledge about mountaineering and have a future plan to climb the BIG Mountains.
 
If you have any previous mountaineering experiences and well knowledge about how to play with mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will surely increase the chances of reaching the summit and also previous trekking and mountaineering experiences is mandatory but doesn’t require any technical experience. But if you are participating in one the technical climbing peak then you must have well knowledge about how to use the mountaineering climbing gears (i.e. crampon with boot, Ice axe, harness, ropes, jumars, prussiks, abseiling, moving past knots, anchor, etc.).Crampons are used for maximum grip and harness and ropes are used for maximum safety during climbing. But for those who have no mountaineering experience and skill but have got tough level of fitness, you will have basic training sessions by our guides about how to use the climbing gears during rest/acclimatization day. So we always make it sure regarding the safety of the team and successful climb of the peak.