Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition is more than just a climb. It's a journey into the heart of the Himalayas. Located in the Khumbu valley of Nepal, only 12 km from the summit of Mount Everest, AmaDablam demands the attention of every passer-by. Soaring ridge lines and super-steep faces guard the summit from all but the experienced climber. From the summit you are surrounded by a vista of peaks like the five of the highest peaks in the world are clearly visible.
Mt. Ama Dablam's first ascent (via the SW ridge) was not made until the mid 60's by a strong NZ/USA team. The north ridge fell to a talented French team as late as 1979. In recent years many parties have successfully climbed the mountain, with nearly all ascents via the original SW ridge route.
Our ascent will also be made via the conventional SW ridge route, a technical route that requires 3500m of fixed ropes and three camps above base camp. The climbing with thisroute involves pure rock climbing on exquisite granite followed by mixed snow and rock climbing. The last section to the summit involves ice climbing followed by a long steep snow slope: often ropes are employed all the way to the summit. The reasons for this are three-fold: safety, speed, and success. Due to the technical nature of the route, ropes will be fixed for most of the climb above camp one. A good working knowledge of abseiling and use of mechanical ascenders (jumars) is mandatory; prior experience is required.
Objective dangers on the SW Ridge route are minimal, ice cliffs do not threaten it, the snow slopes are generally stable (with minimal avalanche risk), the rock is of good quality and the mountain is below the reach of jet stream winds. The route is extremely exposed and mistakes with rope work can be unforgiving. For this reason, we have a low client: guide ratio and use experienced guides to keep you safely on track. Your guide(s) will be involved in the fixing of rope and the smooth running of the expedition but their primary concerns are client safety, best service and success.
Island Peak "ImjeTse", 6,160meter has an impressive, highly glaciated West Face, which rises from the Lhotse Glacier. In fact, the mountain extends from the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is separated only by a small col.
Above this gap is the ridge leading to the summit. From base camp, we will ascend a steep, grassy slope and small rocky steps to high camp. It is necessary to climb a steep, exposed 300 meters of snow and ice ramp to the summit ridge; fixed ropes will be used at this point in an otherwise, non-technical snow climb. We will negotiate a final tricky snow pitch before reaching the summit. Again, stunning views of the surrounding mountains can be seen from the peak, including Nuptse, Lhotse, Cho Polu, Makalu, AmaDablam and Baruntse.
Situated on a large meadow with wonderful views of the Imja valley.
Our first real camp is only one and a half-hours walk above Yak camp. This section is marked by rock cairns and involves boulder hopping and some easy scrambling. We sometimes fix a couple of sections with rope to be used as a handrail.
This section of the route is usually rock climbing only, depending on the season. The granite is high quality and the moves fun, challenging and exposed but “do-able”. We follow a narrow ridge, switching back and forth on each side of the ridge. This is the hardest rock climbing of the entire route. In places the exposure is extreme and you are very thankful for the fixed ropes in place. Whilst it is generally easier not to pull on the ropes all the time if you are finding the going getting a bit too hard you can just rest on the fixed rope. You can also use your jumar to help you over the odd spot of difficulties. Most of the climbing in this section is traversing on the rock, so good rock climbing skills will help you move efficiently and quickly over this terrain.
Camp two: Situated on top of the YellowTower on a narrow platform this campsite is rather exposed and has fantastic views. If you dropped your cup from here it would probably land in base camp!
Now for the hardest snow and ice pitches of the route. We follow a system of steep snow and ice gullies up to join a feature called the Mushroom Ridge. Whilst the ridge itself is not as technical as the gullies leading up to it, the exposure here is palpable. It is a narrow, windy, snow mushroom-like ridge with giant Himalayan peaks in the background. This feature leads us up onto a small plateau at 6300 m, which serves the purpose of camp three.
Camp three: A cold and exposed position is the start of our summit push. The Sherpas will often use a full climbing rope to tie our tents down as the natural shape of the mountain can at times, unfortunately, funnel the wind to this location. It is, however, the only safe flat piece of real estate within the range of the summit.
The initial route is to the right of the huge “dablam” (ice cliff), up a moderately steep slope, which is often iced. Once past this feature, we move toward the center of the face. The angle eases slightly and a couple of tough hours later we emerge on the summit (6,812m). The summit is the size of a tennis court and allows us to move around and take pictures. Five of the world’s six highest peaks are clearly visible, with many other 7000m and lesser peaks filling the gaps.
Day 1
Arrival in KTM, transfer to hotel& briefingDay 2
Half day sightseeing and afternoon equipment checking and fittingDay 3
Fly to Lukla, Trek to Phakding (2,600m)40min flight, 3-4hrs trekDay 4
Trek to Namche (3,440m) 5-6hrsDay 5
Acclimatization day in Namche to Khumjung/Khunde (3,800m)Day 6
Trek to Tengboche(3,905m) 6hrsDay 7
Trek to Dengboche (4,410m) 5hrsDay 8
Acclimatization day in Dingboche up to 5,100mDay 9
Trek to Chukung (4,743m) 3-4hrsDay 10
Acclimatization to Chukung Ri (5,550m), 5hrsDay 11
Trek to Island Peak base camp (4,970m) 4hrsDay 12
Summit attempt of Island Peak (6,160m) and return to base camp 10hrs / to ChukungDay 13
Trek to Pangboche (3,930m)Day 14
Trek to Amadablam base camp (4,600m)Day 15-23
Climbing Period on Mt. AmadablamDay 24
Trek to Pangbouche, 4hrsDay 25
Trek to Namche 5hrsDay 26
Trek to Lukla 6hrsDay 27
Fly to KathmanduDay 28
Free day in KathmanduDay 29
Int’l departure to home Our 6,000m expedition peaks are more challenging than trekking peak climbing trips. Your tough level of fitness is really important for this trip; therefore we strongly suggest preparing yourself for good physical fitness level. You do not need to be an athlete, but a good level of overall fitness is important. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. As an indication, you should be able to walk 8 km / 5 miles with a maximum height gain of 800m/2,000ft with a 10kg rucksack in 5 hours or less.
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 5 to 7 months to prepare yourself as a strong candidate. You can go to the fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 7kg, 10kg, 13 kg, 16kg and up to 20kg), manage some time for cycling for a couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week. However, during climbing, there might be little symptoms of altitude illness like mild headache, fatigue, etc. but take it as normal and just drink a lot of water (4 – 5 liters) every day. On this trek, you need to be able to hike 6 – 10 hours over hilly terrain up to 6,000m of altitude with a daypack. On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 10 – 12 hours. We will have porters to carry our heavy camping equipment, food and also the climbing gear.
All of our 6000m expedition trips are accessible to experienced trekkers and those who have done some climbing trips in European mountains in order to take another challenge on the Himalayas Mountains. This trip will be helpful if you want to gain some knowledge about mountaineering and have a future plan to climb the BIG Mountains.
If you have any previous mountaineering experiences and well knowledge about how to play with mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will surely increase the chances of reaching the summit and also previous trekking and mountaineering experiences is mandatory but doesn’t require any technical experience. But if you are participating in one the technical climbing peak then you must have well knowledge about how to use the mountaineering climbing gears (i.e. crampon with boot, Ice axe, harness, ropes, jumars, prussiks, abseiling, moving past knots, anchor etc.).Crampons are used for maximum grip and harness and ropes are used for maximum safety during climbing. But for those who have no mountaineering experience and skill but have got tough level of fitness, you will have basic training sessions by our guides about how to use the climbing gears during rest/acclimatization day. So we always make sure regarding the safety of the team and the successful climb of the peak.
Annapurna Circuit Trek with Nar-Phu and Tilicho Lake Nov 2024 • Friends We did the Annapurna Circuit Trek with Nar-Phu and Tilicho Lake deviations with Dream Himalaya Adventures in Oct/Nov 2024. The guide Dorje was knowledgeable about the area, and he and our porter Phurba were very attentive to our needs. We had a great time on the trek. I have done several treks with Dream Himalaya and all of them were well organised. I do not hesitate to recommend them to anyone.
Excellent private Kanchenjunga circuit trek, with Drohmo Ri ascent, Nupchu Pokhari side trip and more Oct 2024 • Couples While we were looking for a support agency for a customized trekking program for the Kangchenjunga area, we immediately appreciated the fact that Dream Himalaya Adventures already included the possibility of climbing Drohmo Ri, a non-technical but almost 6000m high viewpoint, above the North Base Camp of Kangchenjunga. The Managing Director Dawa Sherpa then answered very accurately and quickly all our additional questions about other possible optional excursions, the possibility of managing the stages in a flexible way, the possible overnight stay in Pangpema, the difficulties of the itinerary, the conditions of the accommodation and the current possibilities of road access to the
Family trip to EBC Aug 2024 • Family Dream Himilaya provided superb comms and logistics and bespoke service for my family. Dawa and the team are real experts with good contacts. Would definitely recommend.
Great experience! Oct 2024 • Couples Great experience with the agency and all of the employees who are extremely professional yet warm, welcoming and always ready to help. Everything from beginning to the end was easily arranged and worked perfectly. I definitely recommend it 200 %
Amazing Everest Base Camp Trek Nov 2024, Had an amazing time with Dream Himalayan Adventures. Despite such short notice, they were able to organise an EBC trek and assigned a very capable and competent local guide who happens to be an excellent photographer.
I highly recommend Dream Himalaya. They have a first-rate operation with personal attention to trek planning, good communication before and during the trek, and excellent trek organization. In spring 2024 I contacted Dream Himalaya to arrange a custom solo private trek. Dream Himalaya came recommended by a Sherpa friend who has used their services a lot. Dream Himalaya’s manager, Dawa Sherpa (Lama), corresponded with me via email to plan the trek and made all arrangements. Dawa Sherpa fine-tuned the trip arrangements exactly as I wished and came through on every detail, including arranging a private jeep to and from trailheads, telephoning lodges to reserve rooms (this is important during busy times of the year on popular routes), and providing an
The trip was excellent! This was our third trip to Nepal after Annapurnatrek and Kailash and agencywise it was by far the best one! Already the time in Kathmandu was greatly planned. During the trek and climb (14 days) everything worked out perfectly. Our guide (Nigma, a multiple Everest summiter (!)) was more then experienced and summit days was a blast for me and my son (16 y.). On ChoLa Pass (5.300 m) we got in a little trouble, since my wife had problems with the altitude, but this was solved immidiatly by our guide with a bottle of oxygene and she got down safely. As far as I can tell, we always stayed in the nicest guest- and teahoues
Très bonne organisation de la planification jusqu'au départ. Professionnel. L'équipe au BC est top Merci Dawa. In English translation Very good organization from planning to departure. Professional. The team at BC is great Thanks Dawa.
From the first morning meeting, when Dawa Sherpa Lama (our trip organizer and guide) carefully advised us on what to pack and what to leave in hotel in Kathmandu while we were on our high altitude trek, to the hike from Lukla to Namche Bazaar to the Sherpa village of Thame, to Everest View Hotel and then up to Tengboche Monastery -- and finally back to the city for tourist sites and shopping, we were in the best of hands. We had fun, we felt adventurous and always safe and well accommodated at nice tea houses and lodges. Such an amazingly stunning country! All the special requests I had made for research for my book were met and then some.
Dream Himalaya Adventures is a fantastic company to trek with! We had specific dates that we needed to work within and wanted to experience as much as we could within this time and Dawa did a fantastic job of organising our tip to suit. Everything was thoroughly planned and communicated and the hospitality in country was fantastic, from pre-trip meetings to a highly experienced guide. We were so well looked after the whole time we were in Nepal and they were able to make recommendations and changes to our itineraries as the trip went. Couldn’t recommend Dawa and the team enough!
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