Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition is more than just a climb. It's a journey into the heart of the Himalayas. Located in the Khumbu valley of Nepal, only 12 km from the summit of Mount Everest, AmaDablam demands the attention of every passer-by. Soaring ridge lines and super-steep faces guard the summit from all but the experienced climber. From the summit you are surrounded by a vista of peaks like the five of the highest peaks in the world are clearly visible.
Mt. Ama Dablam's first ascent (via the SW ridge) was not made until the mid 60's by a strong NZ/USA team. The north ridge fell to a talented French team as late as 1979. In recent years many parties have successfully climbed the mountain, with nearly all ascents via the original SW ridge route.
Our ascent will also be made via the conventional SW ridge route, a technical route that requires 3500m of fixed ropes and three camps above base camp. The climbing with thisroute involves pure rock climbing on exquisite granite followed by mixed snow and rock climbing. The last section to the summit involves ice climbing followed by a long steep snow slope: often ropes are employed all the way to the summit. The reasons for this are three-fold: safety, speed, and success. Due to the technical nature of the route, ropes will be fixed for most of the climb above camp one. A good working knowledge of abseiling and use of mechanical ascenders (jumars) is mandatory; prior experience is required.
Objective dangers on the SW Ridge route are minimal, ice cliffs do not threaten it, the snow slopes are generally stable (with minimal avalanche risk), the rock is of good quality and the mountain is below the reach of jet stream winds. The route is extremely exposed and mistakes with rope work can be unforgiving. For this reason, we have a low client: guide ratio and use experienced guides to keep you safely on track. Your guide(s) will be involved in the fixing of rope and the smooth running of the expedition but their primary concerns are client safety, best service and success.
Island Peak "ImjeTse", 6,160meter has an impressive, highly glaciated West Face, which rises from the Lhotse Glacier. In fact, the mountain extends from the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is separated only by a small col.
Above this gap is the ridge leading to the summit. From base camp, we will ascend a steep, grassy slope and small rocky steps to high camp. It is necessary to climb a steep, exposed 300 meters of snow and ice ramp to the summit ridge; fixed ropes will be used at this point in an otherwise, non-technical snow climb. We will negotiate a final tricky snow pitch before reaching the summit. Again, stunning views of the surrounding mountains can be seen from the peak, including Nuptse, Lhotse, Cho Polu, Makalu, AmaDablam and Baruntse.
Situated on a large meadow with wonderful views of the Imja valley.
Our first real camp is only one and a half-hours walk above Yak camp. This section is marked by rock cairns and involves boulder hopping and some easy scrambling. We sometimes fix a couple of sections with rope to be used as a handrail.
This section of the route is usually rock climbing only, depending on the season. The granite is high quality and the moves fun, challenging and exposed but “do-able”. We follow a narrow ridge, switching back and forth on each side of the ridge. This is the hardest rock climbing of the entire route. In places the exposure is extreme and you are very thankful for the fixed ropes in place. Whilst it is generally easier not to pull on the ropes all the time if you are finding the going getting a bit too hard you can just rest on the fixed rope. You can also use your jumar to help you over the odd spot of difficulties. Most of the climbing in this section is traversing on the rock, so good rock climbing skills will help you move efficiently and quickly over this terrain.
Camp two: Situated on top of the YellowTower on a narrow platform this campsite is rather exposed and has fantastic views. If you dropped your cup from here it would probably land in base camp!
Now for the hardest snow and ice pitches of the route. We follow a system of steep snow and ice gullies up to join a feature called the Mushroom Ridge. Whilst the ridge itself is not as technical as the gullies leading up to it, the exposure here is palpable. It is a narrow, windy, snow mushroom-like ridge with giant Himalayan peaks in the background. This feature leads us up onto a small plateau at 6300 m, which serves the purpose of camp three.
Camp three: A cold and exposed position is the start of our summit push. The Sherpas will often use a full climbing rope to tie our tents down as the natural shape of the mountain can at times, unfortunately, funnel the wind to this location. It is, however, the only safe flat piece of real estate within the range of the summit.
The initial route is to the right of the huge “dablam” (ice cliff), up a moderately steep slope, which is often iced. Once past this feature, we move toward the center of the face. The angle eases slightly and a couple of tough hours later we emerge on the summit (6,812m). The summit is the size of a tennis court and allows us to move around and take pictures. Five of the world’s six highest peaks are clearly visible, with many other 7000m and lesser peaks filling the gaps.
Day 1
Arrival in KTM, transfer to hotel& briefingDay 2
Half day sightseeing and afternoon equipment checking and fittingDay 3
Fly to Lukla, Trek to Phakding (2,600m)40min flight, 3-4hrs trekDay 4
Trek to Namche (3,440m) 5-6hrsDay 5
Acclimatization day in Namche to Khumjung/Khunde (3,800m)Day 6
Trek to Tengboche(3,905m) 6hrsDay 7
Trek to Dengboche (4,410m) 5hrsDay 8
Acclimatization day in Dingboche up to 5,100mDay 9
Trek to Chukung (4,743m) 3-4hrsDay 10
Acclimatization to Chukung Ri (5,550m), 5hrsDay 11
Trek to Island Peak base camp (4,970m) 4hrsDay 12
Summit attempt of Island Peak (6,160m) and return to base camp 10hrs / to ChukungDay 13
Trek to Pangboche (3,930m)Day 14
Trek to Amadablam base camp (4,600m)Day 15-23
Climbing Period on Mt. AmadablamDay 24
Trek to Pangbouche, 4hrsDay 25
Trek to Namche 5hrsDay 26
Trek to Lukla 6hrsDay 27
Fly to KathmanduDay 28
Free day in KathmanduDay 29
Int’l departure to home Our 6,000m expedition peaks are more challenging than trekking peak climbing trips. Your tough level of fitness is really important for this trip; therefore we strongly suggest preparing yourself for good physical fitness level. You do not need to be an athlete, but a good level of overall fitness is important. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. As an indication, you should be able to walk 8 km / 5 miles with a maximum height gain of 800m/2,000ft with a 10kg rucksack in 5 hours or less.
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 5 to 7 months to prepare yourself as a strong candidate. You can go to the fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 7kg, 10kg, 13 kg, 16kg and up to 20kg), manage some time for cycling for a couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week. However, during climbing, there might be little symptoms of altitude illness like mild headache, fatigue, etc. but take it as normal and just drink a lot of water (4 – 5 liters) every day. On this trek, you need to be able to hike 6 – 10 hours over hilly terrain up to 6,000m of altitude with a daypack. On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 10 – 12 hours. We will have porters to carry our heavy camping equipment, food and also the climbing gear.
All of our 6000m expedition trips are accessible to experienced trekkers and those who have done some climbing trips in European mountains in order to take another challenge on the Himalayas Mountains. This trip will be helpful if you want to gain some knowledge about mountaineering and have a future plan to climb the BIG Mountains.
If you have any previous mountaineering experiences and well knowledge about how to play with mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will surely increase the chances of reaching the summit and also previous trekking and mountaineering experiences is mandatory but doesn’t require any technical experience. But if you are participating in one the technical climbing peak then you must have well knowledge about how to use the mountaineering climbing gears (i.e. crampon with boot, Ice axe, harness, ropes, jumars, prussiks, abseiling, moving past knots, anchor etc.).Crampons are used for maximum grip and harness and ropes are used for maximum safety during climbing. But for those who have no mountaineering experience and skill but have got tough level of fitness, you will have basic training sessions by our guides about how to use the climbing gears during rest/acclimatization day. So we always make sure regarding the safety of the team and the successful climb of the peak.
The trip was excellent! This was our third trip to Nepal after Annapurnatrek and Kailash and agencywise it was by far the best one! Already the time in Kathmandu was greatly planned. During the trek and climb (14 days) everything worked out perfectly. Our guide (Nigma, a multiple Everest summiter (!)) was more then experienced and summit days was a blast for me and my son (16 y.). On ChoLa Pass (5.300 m) we got in a little trouble, since my wife had problems with the altitude, but this was solved immidiatly by our guide with a bottle of oxygene and she got down safely. As far as I can tell, we always stayed in the nicest guest- and teahoues
Très bonne organisation de la planification jusqu'au départ. Professionnel. L'équipe au BC est top Merci Dawa. In English translation Very good organization from planning to departure. Professional. The team at BC is great Thanks Dawa.
From the first morning meeting, when Dawa Sherpa Lama (our trip organizer and guide) carefully advised us on what to pack and what to leave in hotel in Kathmandu while we were on our high altitude trek, to the hike from Lukla to Namche Bazaar to the Sherpa village of Thame, to Everest View Hotel and then up to Tengboche Monastery -- and finally back to the city for tourist sites and shopping, we were in the best of hands. We had fun, we felt adventurous and always safe and well accommodated at nice tea houses and lodges. Such an amazingly stunning country! All the special requests I had made for research for my book were met and then some.
Dream Himalaya Adventures is a fantastic company to trek with! We had specific dates that we needed to work within and wanted to experience as much as we could within this time and Dawa did a fantastic job of organising our tip to suit. Everything was thoroughly planned and communicated and the hospitality in country was fantastic, from pre-trip meetings to a highly experienced guide. We were so well looked after the whole time we were in Nepal and they were able to make recommendations and changes to our itineraries as the trip went. Couldn’t recommend Dawa and the team enough!
We booked our adventure with Dream Himalaya and we certainly did not regret one bit of it. From the moment we landed, we were well taken care of. We were well informed each step of the way on what was or will happen during the hike. This was especially evident when our first days were unfortunately side-tracked by bad weather in Lukla and we had to make crucial decisions for the remainder of the trip. During the hike, we were well taken care of by our sherpa and porters who were all very nice, helpful and thoughtful. They made sure that we were all taken care of, fed and well rested. They also made sure that no one was left behind no
In okt,nov 2023 I was a member of a small group crossing Saribung pas to Mustang. This logistically very demanding trek was excellently prepared by the Dream Himlay Company and in particular by the trek leader Pasang Sherpa. I appreciated the pre-trip very fast and precise mail answers to my questions from Dawa and I am so grateful to have met so many friendly and extremely helpful assistent leaders, porters and kitchen staff members, who all contributed to make this trek an experience of a lifetime.
We chose Dream Himalayas because my partner, Twyla, previously engaged with them in 2013 to trek the Everest Base Camp. She had a wonderful experience with Dawa and his team; they made her EBC dreams come true and she fondly remembers how very well taken care she her trekking partner were on their private trip. So when the opportunity to visit Nepal came in 2023, we did not hesitate to contact Dawa and to inquire if he could customize a bike-trek-bike itinerary for us. For the past years, we have transitioned from trekkers to bike tourers and we wanted to take on the challenge of biking the Annapurna Circuit but we wanted to do it with an experienced outfitter that we
Who said it's the end of the trekking season?! I completed the Everest Base Camp trek through Dream Himalaya Adventures at the end of December - Christmas Day on the way down - and the weather couldn't have been better. Clear blue skies and, ok, a cold night at -26 Celcius, but appropriate clothing layers overcame that. Reaching the base camp was satisfying, but more challenging was the higher Mt Kali Pathar which was a little deficient in oxygen, but fun all the same. My sincere thanks go to Dawa Sherpa Lama for so competently organising this trip for me, as well as later excursions to Chitwan wildlife park and beautiful Pokhara leading up to a memorable new years eve
Did a three-week trek with Dawa Sherpa Lama's company over Sarabung Pass and through the Upper Mustang region. We told Dawa what we were looking for and he designed a trip that met our hopes and expectations. Our lead Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa is very experienced (7 Everest summits), and the entire team of Sherpas, cooks, and porters provided a very high level of service, including great food during the camping sections of the trip. I would recommend Dream Himalaya Adventures Pvt. Ltd to any of my friends that want to trek in Nepal.
We’ve never been so well cared for! Dawa Sherpa is exceptional at what he does and his team including Kami as additional guide and Mantare Rai and Aiselu Rei, as amazing porters, were friendly and attentive, alert to our needs even before we realized what we needed. And a surprise anniversary cake high on the trail too and another birthday cake back in Kathmandu. Yes, I hit both milestones miles from home but Dawa didn’t let them slip by unnoticed. Through sickness and fleeting ailments, the ready and sound advice, encouragement and support, laughter, kindness camaraderie of these amazing people we were able to complete our lofty goals in our mid-sixties. We didn’t give up and are proud of the accomplishment
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