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Mt. Shishapangma Expedition (8,013m) - 38 days

  • Mt. Shishapangma (8013m)

 Trip Info

Trip Code: DHA/M/SX-38
Destination: : Tibet
Climbing Period: 25 days
Trek Type : Guest house basis
Maximum Elevation : 8,013M.
Best Month of the Year : April, May, Sep & Oct
Hotel Accommodation : 5 nights, 3 star hotel, single room BB basis
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Introduction to Mt. Shishapangma Expedition

Mt. Shishapangma (8,013m), the 14th highest peak of the world, straight forward climbs and less technically demanding, an excellent mountain for climbers wanting to scale their first 8,000m peak without taking much risk. 

Mt. Shishapangma, 8013m, "the range above the grassy plain" was first climbed by a Chinese expedition team in 1964 consisting of 10 expedition members, led by XǔJìng. It is located in the central Himalaya and lies totally inside Tibet. To the east lies Mt.Molamenchen, the west – Mt.Xifeng and Mt.Nandengri and to the northwest Mt.Kangbochen.

There are three distinct climbing routes on the Southwest face with several other logical possibilities on the West Ridge and East face. 

Climbing Shishapangma is a great opportunity to escape the crowds of the busier mountains like Mt. Everest and Cho-Oyu while challenging one's self on an 8000m peak. This is a beautiful climb that sees only a fraction of the traffic of Cho-Oyu just to the South-east. It is the only 8000m peak completely within China and towers above the Tibetan plateau. Although Shishapangma lies in a remote area, it's within 10 hours by jeep from Kathmandu via the FriendshipBridge, making it one of the most accessible 8000m mountains 

High Camp & Climbing Routes 

We climb the Mt.Shishapangma using the North face route, which is normal route of the mountain and on request for a private team, we can run via the South face route as well. The route on Shishapangma starts with a jeep ride from Nyalam town to the spectacular Base Camp (5,000m). From BC we have yak support to ABC (5,400m). We establish three higher camps above ABC. The climb to Camp-1 (6,200m) and to Camp-2 (6,700m) is straightforward glacier travel. From C2 the route steepens as it climbs a rocky gulley leading to Camp- 3 (7,400m). From C3 the summit ridge gets steeper, up to 60 degrees, but it is direct and leads right to the Central Summit (8007m). The route between the Central Summit and the Main Summit (8,013m) is quite difficult and requires traversing a sharp ridge crest. If the conditions are acceptable, we will try to go to the Main Summit. Our strong & professional high altitude climbing Sherpas will fix ropes as required. Depending on our fitness, we'll be moving up and down the mountain several times, acclimatizing and stocking the higher camps. This expedition is fully supported by all the base camp & high camp services. 

Journey Outline

After final preparations in Kathmandu,  we will fly to Lhasa then, we spend about 2 nights in Lhasa doing some sight seen tours and acclimatization. From Lhasa, we will take a drive by land cruiser or by bus for Base Camp, spending about 3 nights along the way with some acclimatization trip and this will give us additional opportunity to explore the land of Tibet and visiting ancient cities of Tibet i.e. Gyantse (3990m), Shigatse (3,860m) and Shegar (4050m) etc. On our return trip to Kathmandu, we drive base camp to Kyerong in a long day drive and stay in a guest house, and next day we cross the China/Nepal border and drive for KTM. 


  • Expedition will be finished after summiting the Mt.Shishapangma
  • Expert & experienced cook and crews
  • Excellent logistics at base camp
  • Medical back up with Oxygen and Gamow bag at base camp
  • Full board Expedition services including Oxygen cylinders and Mask set for climbing purpose
  • 1:2 ratios of support climbing Sherpa for summit push
  • Explore the ancient and traditionally rich cities of Tibet
  • Our Sherpa climbers are multiple times Mt. Everest Summiteers
  • Climb the world’s youngest 8000m peak, Mt.Shishapangma (8,012m) in Tibet with professional and already summitted Sherpa Guides


Day 1

Kathmandu Arrival (1300m), Transfer to hotel and Briefing

After you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you will have to go through custom formalities. You will be greeted by our representative who will be anxiously waiting for you with a placard displaying your name in his hand. You will be transferred to the 3-Star category hotel in a private vehicle. Once you get refreshed, you will get briefing regarding the itinerary and you will also be introduced with your crewmembers and other trekkers who are going to join you on the trip. Enjoy welcome dinner in the evening where you can taste authentic Nepali dinner. Stay overnight in a hotel.

Day 2

Kathmandu Sightsee tour, Preparation for expedition

In the morning after breakfast, we will organize half day sightseeing tour during which you will be taken on memorable UNESCO Heritage Tour. Tour begins with visit to Nepal’s holiest Pashupatinath Temple Complex and takes us through Nepal’s largest Bouddhanath Stupa and 2500 years old Swoyambhunath Stupa. We will return to hotel in the afternoon and time for shopping of any missing items, equipment checking and getting ready for the trip.

Day 3

Final Preparation and pack up for expedition

This is the preparation day. Expedition is a long and challenging activity. We need to get well prepared and equip ourselves with all necessary equipment and accessories for successful and enjoyable expedition

Day 4

Fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa (3660m), O/N hotel

You will be picked up from the hotel and transferred to Tribhuvan International Airport. Remember to carry your Tibet Permit and Visit Visa papers. Almost 70 minutes of flight over Everest and other mountains will take you to Lhasa Gonggar Airport. You will take a ride in 4WD vehicle to cover 60km distance along Friendship Highway to Lhasa City. Stay overnight in a hotel in Lhasa. 

Day 5

Sightseeing in Lhasa (3,660m)

Lhasa is located on the northern edge of Kyi Chu River. Lhasa is the spiritual centre of Tibet. We will visit Potala Palace, Ramoche Monastery andNorbulingka Palace. Potala Palace is the home of Dalai Lama which was built in 637 AD. Norbulinkha is the summer palace of Dalai Lama which has been identified as the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sera Monastery and Jokhang Monastery are other places of interest in Lhasa.  

Day 6

Drive to Shigatse (3,900m) 280 km, O/N at Guesthouse

Leaving Lhasa, we will cross Kamba La (4794m) and Karo La (5010m) Pass. The path is scenic and allows view of beautiful Yamadroke-Tso Lake while nreath-taking views of surrounding mountains can be viewed to the south. We will reach Gynatse. KhumbumStupa and Palkor Monastery are places of interest in Gyantse. We will continue to drive to Shigatse (Xigatse) and reach there in about two hours from Gyantse. We will visit Panchen Lamas’ Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatse. 

Day 7-8

Drive to Shegar (4,050m) 244km O/N at Guesthouse / Acclimatization day

Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatselies in the base of Dolmari. This monastery was built in 1477 by GendunDrukpa and the monastery holds the Maitreya Chapel which holds the largest Brass statue of Buddha. We will drive for 4 hours to reach Shegar. Shegar is close to Everest Base Camp. We will stay overnight at Shegar. 

Day 9

Drive to Shishapangma Base Camp (4800m)

From Shegar, we drive straight to Shishapangma Base Camp via Tingri and Nyalam. By the time we reach at Base Camp, our camp site will be ready to use as our staff will reach to base camp earlier than us to prepare the camping site. 

Day 10-11

Rest at Base Camp, Preparation and Acclimatization

We will prepare ourselves for difficult climb of Shishapangma Mountain. We will practice using climbing gears and scout the way towards Advance Base Camp. We can return to lower altitude for acclimatization. The Guide will share Shishapangma climbing strategy with team. He will also provide you with necessary instructions and teach you what to do and how should you call for help if in case of emergency. 

Day 12-13

Trek to Shishapangma Advance Base Camp (5400m), Acclimatization programs

We will trek to Intermediate Base Camp (5,400m) and stay there for 1 night for better acclimatization then we continue to Advance Base Camp (5,600m) the next day. There are three possible routes to climb Shishapangma. One route starts from north face, the other starts from west ridge and the other starts from south face. We will choose the north face route. Yaks or porters will carry the baggage to Advanced Base Camp. 

Day 14-33

Acclimatization, load ferries, route opening, Summit attempt of the Mt.Shishapanmga (8,013m) and descent to the base camp

We have about 20 days/nights to climb Mt. Shishapangma including few spare/emergency days. 
There will be three high camps before we reach to the summit of Shishapangma. 
Advance Base Camp to High Camp 1 (6200m)
We will climb the slope through moraines and boulders and reach High Camp in about 4hours.
High Camp 1 to High Camp2 (6700m)
We will head towards High Camp 2 through glaciated trail. It takes almost 7hours of climbing of snowy slopes to reach Camp2. We need to use fixed ropes at several points to get out of crevasses.
High Camp 2 to High Camp 3 (7400m)
The climb from Camp2 onwards become challenging as we need to climb the steep slope. In about 6hours, we will reach to Camp 3 by climbing the steep section. We will find a clear area below north-west ridge which will be our Camp3.
High Camp 3 to Summit (8013m) and Back to Base Camp
We need to climb the 60 degree elevation which will ultimately take us to the Central Summit. A sharp ridge connects the Central Summit with Main Summit (8013m). The guide will decide if we can attempt Main Summit. It takes almost 12 hours to reach to the summit. We will enjoy the 360degree views of Jugal Mountain Range, Langtang Mountain Range and mountains in Tibet including the neighbouring Cho Oyu Mountain and then descend to Base Camp. 

Day 34

Down to Chinese Base Camp (4800m)

We trek down to Chinese Base Camp, and getting ready for drive to KTM the next day morning. 

Day 35

Drive to Kyirong

From Base Camp, we drive to Kyirong and stay at the guesthouse. 

Day 36

Immigration formalities, and drive for KTM

We complete the immigration formalities and drive for KTM the same day, check in hotel in KTM

Day 37

Free Day in Kathmandu

Spend the day as you like. You can go for shopping in Thamel where you can buy souvenir items. We can also arrange for guided sightseeing tour. Alternatively, you can arrange your photo albums and jot down memories in your journal.

Day 38

International Departure

You will be transferred to the Airport as per your schedule flight for international departure. Safe journey. We hope to see you soon.


  • Mt. Shishapangma Climbing Permit, and all government taxes
  • Group Chinese visa fee
  • Chinese custom clearances at the border
  • Private transport from Katmandu to border, to Base Camp & return
  • Truck to carry expedition loads to & from BC
  • Full board accommodation (B/L/D) en-route to & from BC
  • Chinese Liaison officer& interpreter
  • Liaison officer's wages, allowances and insurance
  • 05 (five) nights, 3 star hotel accommodation on single room BB basis
  • BC – Advance Base Camp – BC, yaks to carry the loads
  • Expedition Sherpa Guide/Sirdar
  • Experienced & Professional high altitude personal climbing Sherpa on 1:2 ratio
  • Experienced Expedition Cooks and Kitchen helpers
  • Permanent kitchen facilities at advance base camp
  • Quality single tent to each client at BC with sleeping mattress
  • Quality carpeted dinning tent with heater at BC
  • All necessary kitchen & camping equipment
  • Shower facility at base camp
  • Quality high altitude tents for the higher camps
  • All necessary climbing hardware gears including the ropes
  • Highly preferable meals at BC and for the higher camps
  • All the hot drinks with beverages during the expedition
  • Quality high altitude freeze dried food & individual packet food
  • EPI gases with burner for high camps
  • POISK Oxygen (02 cylinders Per Client & 01 cylinder Per Sherpa)
  • Mask and Regulator to each client (to be retuned after expedition)
  • Walkie-talkie set to each client with radio base at BC
  • Satellite phone for the emergency call (Personal call on payable basis)
  • Solar Panel/Generator with accessories at BC for recharging & power supply
  • Oxygen set at BC for medical purpose
  • Gamow bag /PAC at BC for medical purpose
  • DHA duffel bags to each client
  • Daily wages, equipment bonus of staff
  • Insurance of local team members
  • All airport/hotel transfers by private vehicle
  • Half day city tours in Kathmandu
  • Celebration meal in Kathmandu


  • High altitude coverage travel insurance
  • International Air ticket & any departures taxes
  • Personal climbing equipment
  • Cost of emergency evacuation and for medical treatment
  • Cost of personal natures of expenses
  • Tips & Summit bonus to the local staff
  • Cost occurred due to delay and cancellation of flights, extension of trek and climbing period etc

Fitness Requirements for the Expedition

Climbing at and above 8,000 meters is inherently dangerous and is not the place to be learning mountaineering and climbing skills. Any expedition that goes to 8,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 50km on flat ground in approximately6 hours. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability. In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 8 to 12 months to prepare yourself as a strong candidate. You can go to the fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for a couple of hours up to 3 or 4 times a week. On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 12 – 16 hours. 

Previous Experiences and Criterions 

Dream Himalaya Adventures strongly suggest that you must climb a number of 6,000m peaks in order to gain mountaineering proficiency and also undertake a trip to one of the 7,000m peak or one of the technically tricky 6000m peaks i.e. Mt. Amadablam, or similar, where you experience expedition camping, higher altitude, and dealing with the cold. Now to get more familiar with 8,000m altitude and extreme cold temperature, we highly recommend our clients  to climb one of our expedition to 8000m mountains, i.e. Mt. Cho Oyu (8201m), Mt. Manaslu (8,163m) or any other over 8,000m mountain, where working with Sherpas, the use of fixed ropes and oxygen equipment are pretty much associated with. With this experience on your side, you will be ready to attempt the Mt. Everest. If you do so, our experience shows that those who have done the expedition with us have significantly increased the success rates. If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.

You must have well knowledge about the usage of mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will increase the chances of reaching the summit and also the previous mountaineering experiences is mandatory but doesn’t really require any high level of technical experience. 


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