Mt. LHAKPA-RI (7,045m/23,000ft) is one of the major mountaineering destinations in Tibet. It is very close to Mount Everest. George Mallory who was on his way to the Everest Reconnaissance in 1921 first climbed it and he had seen its North Col. Expedition mountaineering teams still follow the same route in order to make the summit. The summit view from Lhakpa-Ri rivals that from many of the world's greatest mountains. It gives very unusual views of some of the world's best-known mountains and excellent views of some very little known mountains.
Mt. Lakpa Ri is just over the milestone altitude of 7,000m, making it higher than anything outside Asia and is probably the most climbable 7,000m peak in the world. It's an ideal objective, remarkably positioned just across the glacier from Everest. It shares the historic route up the East Rongbuk Glacier and is climbable by a relatively safe and straightforward route.
There are two major ways to start the expedition, one, you fly to the beautiful & traditional city Lhasa and another way is via a drive from Kathmandu and Zangmu/Naylam, Tingri & Base Camp (5200m). The visits to Lhasa, the overland journey across the Tibetan Plateau, the trek in the footsteps of Mallory and a climb with awesome views of Everest, are the ingredients of a very special expedition. It will also give you a life-long impression of Tibet and its people and insight and deep respect for the achievements of the early Everest pioneers. After reaching the base camp, you have to spend a few days for acclimatization. In order to start your real climb toward the summit, you should start your expedition ahead towards the two middle camps, with the preparation of loading yaks and expedition crews. Continuing ahead on this track you reach the Advance Base Camp, which is situated at a height of 6400m. From ABC, start early in the morning; and continue crossing the Rongbuk glacier. There are few crevasses and slopes from the Rongbuk and Kharta glacier and they are relatively low angled which are linked by the Lhakpa pass 6848m; and it is just to the North of Lhakpa-Ri until you reach the very foot of the slope, leading you to the North ridge of the Summit. The routes are 20-30 degree vertical elevations. This route is not so hard but the vertical way is very long. Follow the way of the North ridge and on the other side, you will see Kharta glacier and the views of North Col of Everest. The same way of the ridge leads up to the Summit of Lhakpa-Ri
We will establish our base camp at ~5200m at a big ground above Rongbuk before making our way to high camps and Advance Base Camp. Once our acclimatization in and around base camp will be completed, then we'll start our summit bit establishing two middle camps in between BC & ABC, i.e. Camp 1 at altitude of 5,460m, Changtse Base Camp at (6,008m) and our trek continues for Advance Base Camp, where we do our preparations and acclimatization “go higher and sleep at lower”. Once we are ready then we go for the summit attempt and same day descent all the way to ABC, which takes about 10 – 12 hours. Climbing up to the summit of Lakpa-RI is not technically difficult, but general knowledge to play with the climbing gears is helpful and a high level of fitness is required.
After final preparations in Kathmandu, we will fly to Lhasa then, we spend about 2 nights in Lhasa doing some sight seen tours and acclimatization. From Lhasa, we will take a drive by land cruiser or by bus for Base Camp, spending about 3 nights along the way with some acclimatization trip and this will give us additional opportunity to explore the land of Tibet and visiting ancient cities of Tibet i.e. Gyantse (3990m), Shigatse (3,860m) and Shegar (4050m) etc. On our return trip to Kathmandu, we drive base camp to Kyerong in a long day drive and stay in a guest house, and next day we cross the China/Nepal border and drive for KTM.
Day 1Arrive in Kathmandu, transfer to Hotel& briefing
Day 2-3Tours, Chinese Via, Equipment checks and last minute preparation
Day 4Fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa (3660m), O/N hotel
Day 5Sightseeing in Lhasa (3,660m)
Day 6Drive to Shigatse (3,900m) 280 km, O/N at Guesthouse
Day 7Drive to Shegar (4,050m) 244kmO/N at Guesthouse
Day 8Rest day at Shegar for acclimatizations
Day 9Drive Base Camp (5200m) 80km& Acclimatisation
Day 10-15Acclimatisation at Base Camp (5200m)
Day 16Trek to Intermediate Base Camp (5,800m)
Day 17Trek to Advance Base Camp - ABC (6400m)
Day 18-19Acclimatisation and final preparation for summit attempt
Day 20Climb up to crampons point and return to ABC
Day 21Ascend to Lhakpa-Ri (7045m) and return to ABC
Day 22Return to Base Camp
Day 23Drive to Keyrong
Day 24Drive to KTM, transfer to hotel, rest, shower
Day 25Free day in Kathmandu
Day 26Depart for Int’l flight to home
Climbing at and above 8,000 meters is inherently dangerous and is not the place to be learning mountaineering and climbing skills. Any expedition that goes to 8,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 50km on flat ground in approximately6 hours. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability. In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 8 to 12 months to prepare yourself as a strong candidate. You can go to the fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for a couple of hours up to 3 or 4 times a week. On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 12 – 16 hours.
Dream Himalaya Adventures strongly suggest that you must climb a number of 6,000m peaks in order to gain mountaineering proficiency and also undertake a trip to one of the 7,000m peak or one of the technically tricky 6000m peaks i.e. Mt. Amadablam, or similar, where you experience expedition camping, higher altitude, and dealing with the cold. Now to get more familiar with 8,000m altitude and extreme cold temperature, we highly recommend our clients to climb one of our expedition to 8000m mountains, i.e. Mt. Cho Oyu (8201m), Mt. Manaslu (8,163m) or any other over 8,000m mountain, where working with Sherpas, the use of fixed ropes and oxygen equipment are pretty much associated with. With this experience on your side, you will be ready to attempt the Mt. Everest. If you do so, our experience shows that those who have done the expedition with us have significantly increased the success rates. If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
You must have well knowledge about the usage of mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will increase the chances of reaching the summit and also the previous mountaineering experiences is mandatory but doesn’t really require any high level of technical experience.
I had the amazing opportunity of trekking through Khumbu, Nepal over Renjo La towards Gokyo lake and back down through Namche Bazaar. This trip would have been impossible without the incredible support of the Dream Himalaya Adventures team. They handled all of the logistics and support throughout the trip so that our experience could be completely stress free. The amazing staff is so kind, friendly, and some of the best people that you'll have the opportunity of becoming acquainted with. I'll be going back soon with Dream Himalaya and I recommend you do the same!
Dream Himalaya provided an unforgettable adventure led by our exceptional guide Karma. His expertise, coupled with his genuine love and joy for the mountains, made him an absolute joy to be with for three weeks. With his support and the rest of the team, we successfully climbed Lobuche Peak. We couldn't have achieved it without Dawa's professionalism, meticulous planning, and genuine care.
Dream Himalaya Adventures is a great service provider. We trekked along the Bhote Koshi towards Nangpa La. Then, crossed Renjo La and spent some time in Gokyo before heading south along the Dudhkoshi to Chumoa. Pema and Kami are extremely helpful, thoughtful, and reliable. They made our trek very comfortable. Our hosts at the guesthouses were kind and generous. Dawa and his team provided great service. I highly recommend Dream Himalaya Adventures.
We took a slow pace trekking clockwise up and over the Renzo pass. It was a stunning journey: all of the guesthouses we stayed in were lovely (warm, clean, with delicious food), and our guides were so kind and caring! Pema and Kami were so fun to spend the trek with, flexible in our group's plans, and very thoughtful, helping us achieve all that we wanted to do. I hope to do another trek with Dream Himalaya Adventures in the future!
To: Dream Himalaya Adventures c/o Dawa, The service you have provided during my trek was superb. Your services are excellent and worthy of recommendation. You deserve this recognition and appreciation!!! There is always a touch of excellence in your work! Thank you and God bless! Keep it up!
Thank you to Dawa and Dream Himalaya Adventures for making our trip an adventure of a lifetime! Very professional with outstanding communication even during our preparation. All our expectations were exceeded! Staff was very kind and professional as well. Shout out to our Sherpa Pasang and our porters for a job well done. They took care of us well. Thanks to my hiking buddies Gary and Vlad your the best! Dream Himalaya Adventures is the way to go! 🙏
A great experience & adventure even though quite challenging. Dawa from Dream Himalayan Adventures was excellent & very accommodating ,he makes sure you are well equiped for the adventure ahead. The accommodation on the trek is serviceable & the food surprisingly very good considering the remoteness. The staff at base camp ,sherpas & porters are all friendly ,helpfull & know their stuff. I would be very happy to use Dream Himalaya Adventures again.
I’m so glad I chose Dream Himalaya to handle the logistics for my EBC Trek this April 2023. Everything was meticulously planned, handled and executed from the get go which enabled me to enjoy a great hassle free trek. Everything from thé coordinator, guides and sherpa were awesome. Truly world class service from the day you arrive at KTM until you say your goodbyes . These are the stuff dreams are made of .
What an adventure ! in a beautiful location surrounded by beautiful people. I was treated like family by Dawa and Pasang. All I have is beautiful memories and superb photos. I loved Nepal / Himalayas/ Everest region and would only recommend Dawa and the team to trek with in Nepal.
We had the best time with the team from Dream Himalaya Adventures they went above and beyond for me and my wife before, during and after our trip I will be 100% returning to do my trips with Dawa and his team
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